Monday, April 30, 2007
Yesterday afternoon I set off for Grindavik via Krysuvik, the long way around, to visit some friends. However, when I reached the base of the mountain pass at Krysuvik, the wind and rain picked up something fierce. I pulled over and waited a minute, deciding whether or not to continue. Something said no, so I turned around; wind was far to strong and didn’t want to take any chances. From that point until Grindavik there’s no cell phone service, cut off from the mountain range directly over the Mid-Atlantic tectonic plate. The atmosphere was spooky enough to make this ridge open up and swallow me without a trace. In circumstances like this the surrounding landscape of frozen-wave larva covered in moss looks threatening. Here and there was an occasional cairn set up centuries ago and maintained until not that long ago. These cairns were markers for people on horseback and foot not to get lost in the frozen waves, very easy to do.
Icelanders are quite sensitive to the cold, more so than you'd expect. Even when the weather is warm as it is now (13C at 11am) you see teenagers with hats on, something with which an American kid would never be caught dead. I attribute this sensitivity to the abundant, cheap geothermal heat...most homes have it on full blast.
Please note: tomorrow (Tuesday) is a holiday, May 1st. I may not be able to post an entry for that day since I'm experiencing trouble entering posts from my home computer. That means I may have to wait until Wednesday to post at work.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
In the afternoon I decided to get out, despite high winds. Towards the east is a large, table-top mountain some 15 kilometers distant upon which I´ve seen cars. That is, on occasion Id see headlights up thereand wondered about an access road. So I drove towards Mosfellsbáe hung east and followed a good dirt road for some 20k. Normally such roadsare fine, but yesterday I kicked up a huge swirl of dust. Even worse, when a car approached, I had to roll up my windows to prevent his dust from filling my car. Welcome to the desert, not an uncommon experience in Iceland. Yes, the landscape is desert-like, reminiscent of Southern California only little or no shrubs. I found that access road which wasvery rough, not suited for an ordinary vehicle. Despite open planes, walking is difficult due to clumps of moss. It consists of one foot up and the other down, constantly on guard, which makes for very difficult maneuvering. Today is just as bright but certainly not as windy.
Yesterday I noted that I started reading sections in Exodus pertinent to the Red Sea incident and finished off this morning, always a thrill to read. Some years ago on my Lectio Page I did a study of Hebrew words, so refer anyone interested to it. "In the morning watch the Lord in the pillar of fire and of cloud looked down upon the host of the Egyptians and discomforted the Egyptians" (14.24). Note the distinction between the two divine looks, from the pillar of fire and the cloud, both being effected simultaneously, which resulted in a discomforting of the Egyptians. Hamah is the verb, fundamentally as to hum, coo, mourn, or sigh. From it derives a common noun, multitude. And so this mourning/sighing stems from the double looking-down by the Lord from brightness and darkness.
Saturday, April 28, 2007
A lot of people are escaping Reykjavik for the countryside, a long weekend in store. Because the forecast seems promising, I just might return to the Hengill area…not to hike but walk around in leisurely fashion to absorb the unique atmosphere, especially that unique Icelandic sensation of being watched. Even though I plan on it, given the unpredictable nature of Icelandic weather, it just might no happen. For example, right now (9am) it’s bright and sunny, but the wind is howling at what seems hurricane force. There are no leaves nor tree branches to gauge the strength as you would in other places, just the sound and occasional piece of paper flying by.
I read some material in passing which says that our task in life is to return to the Garden of Eden. However, that seems incorrect. Better to say Eden is a half-way house of which we retain anamnesis and use that anamnesis for future attainment.
A few entries ago I mentioned a tv program where scientists were examining the miracles in Exodus. And so this morning I opened my Hebrew Bible and read most of chapter 14 (will finish the rest tomorrow), that is, in light of science. First impression through the Hebrew text: that it is an oral account which changes completely how you view it. The genius of this Hebrew text is that while it is something that had been written down, it is very close to the oral experience. One verse (14.14) caught my attention: “The Lord will fight for you, and you have only to be still.” The verb here is charash, fundamentally as “to plough,” “to fabricate (evil).” Apart from this, I picked up a subtle kind of humor. Here were the Israelites pressed in on every side, their backs up against the sea, making them cry out and lament. Quite a few references to this are before vs. 14. Next, God tells them basically to shut up, tired of all this babbling.
Friday, April 27, 2007
I saw a tv program which gave a scientific explanation of the Exodus plagues and Red Sea crossing. They were attempting to see where faith, history and science agree or disagree. Although scientific principles were followed together with sophisticated instruments, there was something bordering on the naïve about all this. It was a familiar science vs. faith confrontation with the former coming out as victor even before any conclusions were drawn. I´ve always felt that the Bible should be used as a vehicle for lectio divina, especially when using the original languages. Not only that, but a contemplative attitude is crucial to see another dimension. Unfortunately, the program never touched on this nor did I expect it to. At the same time, I was painfully aware of the absence of this contemplative-lectio approach. This makes the faith side a looser by default. If anyone were to bring contemplation to the discussion, people would look at you with the blankest of stares. And so, best to leave alone these programs and the attitudes they represent and work quietly away. When you do, sooner or later you´re bound to meet a like-minded person, even if one in a billion.
The Virginia Tech massacre faded from the news quickly, no surpise there, and we´re moving on to the daily horrors of Iraq. One co-worker made an interesting observation…he has no problem with (gun) violence in America. When I asked why, he responded by referring to the European history of warefare and violence which makes everything else pale in comparsion.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Here it’s not uncommon for young people to do a year or two of college after which they take a break to work for a year or so and then finish off their education. One fellow at the post did two years of college and returns in the autumn. He spent the past year doing menial work unloading trucks out back. The reason given: not to make money but to experience what he terms a lousy job to give himself incentive for a higher education. Quite impressed, really.
This summer is predicted to be the hottest in 100 years, obviously part of global warming. The big fear is retreating glaciers as well as melting in nearby Greenland. Here at the Arctic people are especially sensitive to such matters because it affects them more than other places.
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
I went to bed shortly before midnight last night and noticed that it wasn’t quite 100% dark, sign of brighter days…nights…to come.
Some friends in Boston sent an article about an Icelandic architect who remodeled an old house in Cambridge. These good folks have always had a keen interest in Scandinavian architecture and furniture, even at one point having had a furniture store specializing in that stuff. They retain an idealized view of Scandinavia but never visited. When I asked why, they said that seeing the reality would destroy the idealized vision. I thought of that observation frequently when going about my business here and can see the pluses and minuses of what they mean. While technically part of Scandinavia, Iceland is very different, chiefly due to the Celtic influence. Furthermore, Icelanders always had a rebellious, independent spirit about them reflected both in older and newer architecture. “Hodge-podge,” as a friend here observed accurately. In the final analysis, the genius of Iceland remains hidden from most visitors, that is, the language and the keen interest in things literary which applies equally to other cultures.
Taco Bell opened a place in Garðabǽ recently, first one in Iceland, which joins the ranks of Domino’s, MacDonald, Burger King and Pizza Hut. Spring flyers are coming in about summer sales of clothing, grills, garden equipment and all the rest associated with the season.
Last evening at work the cafeteria had ýsa or baked haddock, exceptionally fine. The meals put out there are for the most part very fine…and very cheap which certainly helps.
About 80 kilometers southeast of Reykjavik is Iceland’s only prison called Lítla Raun which translates Little Larva. An apt name.
As I noted, last Thursday (April 19th) was the First Day of Summer, a national holiday. That was the day when people broke out their grills and just about are on every porch or lawn. A tradition not unlike Forth of July with grilling just as big as in the USA.
By reason of being an island, Iceland can have a mentality suited for such an environment though not as much as in other places due to high literacy and cultural events. At the same time I find myself having adopted such an island mentality…it creeps up on you slowly but surely. I’d describe it as considering your environment as the center of the world around which you expect everyone else (i.e., non-Icelanders) to revolve.
Monday, April 23, 2007
Later in the day I in part of the nearby Reykjanes peninsula at the end of which is located Iceland’s international airport at Keflavik. It’s one of the most barren, unattractive areas in the country, and first time visitors feel as if they’ve landed on the moon. Icelanders feel a bit awkward when foreigners note their impressions, knowing full well of that area´s unappeal. Later I accessed a website of the area which read “You may not know it, but as soon as you touch down at Keflavik Airport, your experience has alreadybegun.” Surely someone with a bizarre sense of humor had written thosewords.
As for the Reykjanes peninsula, over the years there has been talk of constructing an electrified railroad line between Reykjavik and the airport at Keflavik, some 55 kilometers away. It would also towns outside Reykjavik, thereby creating a commuter rail system. Some have said the cost is prohibitive as well as the strong winds and snow on the peninsula. To counter this, proponents claim that due to the loose volcanic soil, the rail line could be laid in a trench for protection against the elements. Another element in favor is the cheap electricity generated by geothermal power. I haven’t heard much about this project since my arrival but like a growing number of people, hope it will be constructed.
In the afternoon I decided to drive to the Hengill area which I visited forthe first time about 2 months ago, this being my 3rd time there. Very intriguing landscape: similar to Reykjanes and Krysuvik by reason of itsall-around barrenness yet not as “primeval,” perhaps due to the gentler hills and mountains. Hengill is only about 30 minutes away across a flat, barren larva flow which parallels one of the main above-ground steam pipesfeeding Reykjavik. The road ascending the mountains (which aren’t terribly high) twists and turns but is in fine condition with recently plowed snow on the summit. I parked in a small valley and took one of the many trails just to get a better idea of the place. Over a rise I hit upon a spectacular narrow valley with many rock formations being human size. The side of one cliff had caves, Qumran-like, but I doubt precious mss are awaiting there to be discovered. All in all, being out there was just another instance of the famous Icelandic sense of being watched by someone, somewhere nearby. At the same time this feeling isn’t intrusive despite the barren landscape but in a way, comforting. Part of this comes from the fact that so many places in Iceland have place names, even in a small area. This naming is a kind of taming which neutralizes otherwise foreboding locales.
Iceland has no defense force, such a small nation. The only “warship” is something smaller than a destroyer with a few guns mounted front and rearfor patrolling local waters. From time to time I see it pull in and out ofReykjavik’s smaller harbor.
Icelanders lack what you could call a sense of religious guilt, something for which Catholics are (in)famous. Not that they are immoral (far from it), but their inbuilt simplicity substitutes for guilt, so to speak. Eventhough Iceland is technically a Lutheran country, people here have been remarkably immune to what you could call Protestant guilt which can be more severe than the Catholic type. It’s a refreshing attitude towards life youdon’t pick up unless dealing with folks over an extended period of time.
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Recently I was in an industrial area just outside Reykjavik, factories and the rest. Usually such places have smokestacks yet there were none because of the geothermal energy. Several exceptions: stacks used to expel excess heat which looks like smoke but is steam. This absence of smokestacks, even on houses, strikes a first-time visitor as odd but reveals the real treasure of Iceland.
Drizzly weather, not untypical. When it’s like this, often I think of the Gulf Stream…just a few degrees alteration, and we’d be like nearby Greenland, permanently locked in ice. However, that seems to be changing with global warming. Then again, global warming can do strange things and really screw up Iceland’s privileged place in the North Atlantic, transforming it into an icebox (virtually overnight).
I enjoy listening in on children speaking Icelandic. More often than not they don’t get the grammar right. By that I don’t mean the usual grammatical errors of such a young age but something more specific to the Icelandic language. It has four declensions. Add to that the singular and plural as well as four additional ways an adjective modifies a noun with the definite case. You hear parents constantly correcting their children as to the proper endings which to the untrained observer seems excessive, but it’s done from a desire to get the grammar used correctly. As for grammar applied to adults, there’s what is called “dative case sickness.” It reflects a tendency to throw many nouns into the dative case despite the fact that some prepositions govern other cases. This is natural and often railed against by purists or the grammar police who meet once a week to discuss formation of new Icelandic words and finer points of grammar. Their results are published in the main paper and followed with considerable attention, unique among modern cultures.
“Then Joshua gathered all the tribes of
When I was out at Krysuvik two days ago I was struck, as always, at the new and tortured landscape. Everything appeared to be in a jumble. However, it makes sense if you engage in contemplation which quickly I’d identify as suspending your thoughts. Looking at nature like this puts it into perspective, for then you could contemplate (the theory of) evolution as the way someone or something would manifest that which he or it would like to say. The glacial development of various species, rise and fall of mountain chains and the like, so unconnected with God, then fit in nicely. But that means you have to be careful about using this word “God.” All in all, we in the West got ourselves into quite a pickle with the theory of evolution and spirituality. On a level you rarely if ever hear, the real problem is that contemplation in the West is rare. If it were more developed as in places such as India and the like, we’d be in a better spot.
Friday, April 20, 2007
I parked by Kleifavatn, a large lake that doubles as a reservoir for area ssouth of Reykjavik and walked out onto a promontory some 60 meters abovethe water. On each side were jagged cliffs and tiny, crescent beaches withbeautiful black sand. Several other promontories are nearby on which it’d be easy to drive a car and pull a Thelma and Louise over the edge. Actually about 10 years ago two women did just that, perhaps “inspired” by the movie. Even though there’s no vegetation, quickly you can get lost. Sounds odd, but there are many dips and rises in the landscape not unlikeocean waves (i.e., the larva) frozen in time which makes for quick disorientation. Then you have to watch constantly for loose volcanic gravel, perfect for twisting your ankle. On the positive side, some of this gravel offers a perfect cushion for walking, that is, when on levelground. Also the moss provides a great mattress for laying down to soak in the rays because it doesn’t retain moisture. As for catching rays, toromnow right through autumn you have to be very careful with exposure to the sun,very intense here. The countless juttings of rocks in a place like Krysuvik gives rise to a feeling that you’re not alone. This is acknowledged as universal among Icelanders and easy to see why. Sometimes rock croppings as in the midst of a frozen larva field appear human or animal like, especially from the corner of your eye. Couldn´t help but think of Lot´s wife who turned into a pillar of salt. Then you have rock ledges or boulders looming overhead or volcanic crevices in which you catch a fleeting glimpse of an elf or whatever. Don’t forget. These are at every footstep and quickly forms an impression in your mind. I had that being-watched feeling at Krysuvik, no doubt, but it’s enhanced when theweather is dark and windy…like you’re trespassing onto someone’s turf without permission.
As for yesterday being the first day of summer here in Iceland, today started off with snowshowers.
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Yesterday Reykjavik had a major albeit unfortunate milestone in its history. About 2pm a fire broke out in a bar, the old downtown section, which quickly spread until it consumed approximately ¼ of the old section. Many of those buildings had been designated as historical and are irreplaceable. I heard that a barmaid caused it and ran across the street for a fire extinguisher during which time the fire spread rapidly. I was at work, and everyone was attuned to their radios and Internet with live video streaming. Police halted all incoming traffic but were afraid curiosity seekers would flood downtown anyway. Extremely sad, given that Reykjavik has so few buildings of historical value. Many are wooden with external facades of all things, corrugated metal. Over the years before modern insulation methods came to be, this was state-of-the-art stuff.
One other point I throw in here: I’ve noted often Iceland’s geothermal power which, as many have said, has spoiled the nation because it’s so inexpensive. It wasn’t until WW II that this natural potential had been tapped. Before that, here and there, and of all things, imported coal.
I saw a helicopter overhead early this morning, a þyrla. That's what I like about Icelandic, original words as opposed to wishy-washy copies.
Promises to be an exceptionally fine day, this first day of summer! I’ve been invited to a barbecue later on but will preface this by a drive out to Krysuvik to soak in the austere natural beauty there. Often when I used the adjective “exceptional” as applied to the weather that always means no wind.
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
Local reaction to the Virginia Tech massacre didn’t take people here by surprise; several told me it typified much of what’s wrong with America, thattt is, lack of gun control. At the same time, nobody railed against the US, just expressed their sadness.
Today’s weather is partly cloudy, not the slightest breeze, which makes Iceland one of the most special places in the world to experience natural silence. You don’t have to go far from the city or inhabited areas because urban planning here is quite advanced. That is to say, even some 50 years ago natural surroundings were incorporated such as paths, wooded areas and the like.
“The Lord…will drive them out of your sight, and you shall possess their land” [Jos 23.5]. The same verb (yarash) with two different meanings; fundamental sense is to inherit which here seems to imply ridding oneself of an obstacle before actually possessing it.
Icelanders are wild over American Idol, following it closely. They also like Desperate Housewives, CSI and 24 Hours. Although British programs are offered, American ones are preferred head over heels.
Yesterday I set in motion renewal of both living and work permits, one year close to being completed. Dealing with that dept. is not pleasant as had been my experience last summer. This time the computer was down. Then I was told that as a citizen from a non-EU country, I should have applied three months ago. That went contrary to info they told me early March, one month. However, I´m not surprised. Later in the day (today) I visited several places for print-outs of tax forms, etc, with one more to go under the vague heading of "social services." I guess it has something to do with being a productive alien or whatever. I only hope tomorrow's visit to that office will conclude this run-around.
Last week I started to draw curtains to my bedroom when going to sleep because it was light around 5 am. This appearance of early light can be a bit difficult adjusting to. I heard that others have the same problem, but after a few weeks people get used to it.
Monday, April 16, 2007
Later that evening the wife of my friend from Westmannæyar dropped him off for an overnight stay at my place. Today he was headed for Copenhagen for three weeks to work on some Icelandic manuscripts stored there. He is a Catholic and resides with the Jesuits in downtown Copenhagen. That community was once thriving but now consists of five elderly priests; talk of closing it within two years or so.
Yesterday the Catholic cathedral played host to children making their first communion. Didn´t go but went to Hafnafjörður, a relatively new parish church with a fine layout and parish hall. It´s about 300 meters from the Carmelite cloister here since 1929 and now a virtual Polish enclave.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Recently I picked up for a re-read Icarus Fallen by Chantal Delsol. She takes up the theme of Icarus who soared too close to the sun and fell into the sea where he died. Delsol alters the myth by having Icarus live and finding himself back in familiar territory from which he wanted to escape so desperately. In other words, this is the predicament we're in nowadays. It's not unlike the prodigal son (as she admits) yet takes up this myth over the parable to avoid overtly religious symbols, etc. If she had gone that route, she would have turned off most of her audience. Still, the religious overtones run deep in Icarus Fallen, so looking forward to a re-visit.
"I have decided." I continue listening to what I call AA Radio each morning or broadcasts of American speakers from Alcoholics Anonymous. These simple words are the very starting point of recovery, situated as they are in the context of relying upon a "higher power."
Saturday, April 14, 2007
"We work just eight hours a day for food and shelter." Words from a lady at the post describing the Icelandic attitude towards work, something I've known a long time. She continued by saying that many people hold down second or second part-time jobs. A lot of this relates to maintaining a life style beyond one's means, wanting the biggest and best of everything, typically Icelandic. If it doesn't work, chuck it in the trash. If I heard these words and saw these actions in the USA or any other country, I'd be dismayed. However, there comes through and comes through constantly that Icelandic child-like simplicity which is the most attractive part of living here. I experience it daily, often more than that, and feel right at home despite attitudes that otherwise would be disagreeable.
Was reading in the Phaedo about the similarity between mislogues and misanthropes. The former are those who hate rational discourse which Plato equates with those who hate people. Of course, logos is part of "misologue" which has deeper significance in Greek.
Stores, gas stations and supermarkets are fond of putting up flags displaying their respective logos, that is, when they open and take them down at closing. Quite colorful, really.
Friday, April 13, 2007
I’ve heard about this controversy over an American talk show host, Don Imus, who supposedly made racial-gender remarks about a sports team. I have only the vaguest of information, but what captured my attention on tv were shots of those offended by Imus’ remarks. There they were sitting there pouting. Not just that but enjoying every minute of having been offended. From my perch in Iceland this seems utterly foreign, from another planet. I haven’t asked anyone about it here but surely would receive some fairly withering.
Yesterday I visited a friend at LIN, the government based student loan association. This lady is, second in charge, a good friend of many years. Yesterday she returned from a day long trip to Akureyrei in the north, a 50 minute flight. She got home 3 hours late and was completely exhausted. While discussing this we talked about how people are enslaved to work and that when you retire, you look back and see little if nothing accomplished. Familiar stuff which came home while glancing at people on the street outside going about their business, i.e., all slaves to their work.
Thursday, April 12, 2007
One fellow at work is an avid listened to old rock n’ roll music, that is from the ‘50s and early ’60s. Also he has become quite a historian of that music which make him fun to talk with. I asked why the interest and the response was that it reminded him of his childhood, “carefree days” as he put it.
Technically I have both today and tomorrow off prefaced by the weekend, the usual 4 days off about once every six weeks or so. Problem is, it is the week right after 4 days of Easter break, kind of weird, but figure that’s how the schedule goes. Since I’d like to be off May 7th, I asked to switch that day for work tomorrow which turned out fine.
Looks like a typical rainy day with that vague type of clearing you see here and there. Again with things Icelandic, a moderating influence.
A lot of people are conscious of recyling, especially in light of global warming which is bound to increase this. However, Icelanders are appallingly negligent here. Since WW II the country hasa grown increasingly prosperous which has fed that peculiar Icelandic character of wanting the best and biggest...immediately. While common to most consummer societies, here it operates big time. Ask any Icelander about the environment, especially as it relates to recycling, and he or she would look at you with amazement, at how stupid you are to bring up such a matter. To counter this, some have said that Iceland is too insulated, that it needs a shock, and that could come in the Gulf Stream altering just a fraction which would plunge the country into deep freeze. While contrary to beliefs about global warming, this, I'm told, is part of it.