Yesterday I spent more time at Krysuvik than anticipated, the weather was so good. As I noted elsewhere, I wish I had a Thoreauvian gift to describe it but fail to do so adequately. Still that doesn’t prevent enjoying the atmosphere. Big Sky Country is apt, but Iceland has volcanoes and geothermal activitycompared to places like Montana. Then throw in the ocean, and you have a unique place. The landscape in a place like Krysuvik is as moon-like as you can get. Quite a few Icelanders consider it haunted despite theproximity to Reykjavik, so not many go there. Understandable because ofthe raw, just-born appearance to the mountain range which straddles theMid-Atlantic rift. In a sense, Krysuvik reminds one of Mt. Sinai though from the photos I´ve seen, Sinai is older looking. This observation is accurate because Iceland is young, geologically speaking.

I parked by Kleifavatn, a large lake that doubles as a reservoir for area ssouth of Reykjavik and walked out onto a promontory some 60 meters abovethe water. On each side were jagged cliffs and tiny, crescent beaches withbeautiful black sand. Several other promontories are nearby on which it’d be easy to drive a car and pull a Thelma and Louise over the edge. Actually about 10 years ago two women did just that, perhaps “inspired” by the movie. Even though there’s no vegetation, quickly you can get lost. Sounds odd, but there are many dips and rises in the landscape not unlikeocean waves (i.e., the larva) frozen in time which makes for quick disorientation. Then you have to watch constantly for loose volcanic gravel, perfect for twisting your ankle. On the positive side, some of this gravel offers a perfect cushion for walking, that is, when on levelground. Also the moss provides a great mattress for laying down to soak in the rays because it doesn’t retain moisture. As for catching rays, toromnow right through autumn you have to be very careful with exposure to the sun,very intense here. The countless juttings of rocks in a place like Krysuvik gives rise to a feeling that you’re not alone. This is acknowledged as universal among Icelanders and easy to see why. Sometimes rock croppings as in the midst of a frozen larva field appear human or animal like, especially from the corner of your eye. Couldn´t help but think of Lot´s wife who turned into a pillar of salt. Then you have rock ledges or boulders looming overhead or volcanic crevices in which you catch a fleeting glimpse of an elf or whatever. Don’t forget. These are at every footstep and quickly forms an impression in your mind. I had that being-watched feeling at Krysuvik, no doubt, but it’s enhanced when theweather is dark and windy…like you’re trespassing onto someone’s turf without permission.

As for yesterday being the first day of summer here in Iceland, today started off with snowshowers.