Monday, April 23, 2007

Yesterday I stopped by work briefly to use a computer to upload entry for that day, having had some problems with the blogger website from my homecomputer. They had ordered Domino’s pizza (http://www.dominos.is/), so I grabbed afew pieces, delighted at having made an unexpected discovery. I’ve noticed that Icelanders like Hawaiian pizza…pineapples as part of the topping. Another favorite for Chinese take-out is found at www.nings.is.

Later in the day I in part of the nearby Reykjanes peninsula at the end of which is located Iceland’s international airport at Keflavik. It’s one of the most barren, unattractive areas in the country, and first time visitors feel as if they’ve landed on the moon. Icelanders feel a bit awkward when foreigners note their impressions, knowing full well of that area´s unappeal. Later I accessed a website of the area which read “You may not know it, but as soon as you touch down at Keflavik Airport, your experience has alreadybegun.” Surely someone with a bizarre sense of humor had written thosewords.

As for the Reykjanes peninsula, over the years there has been talk of constructing an electrified railroad line between Reykjavik and the airport at Keflavik, some 55 kilometers away. It would also towns outside Reykjavik, thereby creating a commuter rail system. Some have said the cost is prohibitive as well as the strong winds and snow on the peninsula. To counter this, proponents claim that due to the loose volcanic soil, the rail line could be laid in a trench for protection against the elements. Another element in favor is the cheap electricity generated by geothermal power. I haven’t heard much about this project since my arrival but like a growing number of people, hope it will be constructed.

In the afternoon I decided to drive to the Hengill area which I visited forthe first time about 2 months ago, this being my 3rd time there. Very intriguing landscape: similar to Reykjanes and Krysuvik by reason of itsall-around barrenness yet not as “primeval,” perhaps due to the gentler hills and mountains. Hengill is only about 30 minutes away across a flat, barren larva flow which parallels one of the main above-ground steam pipesfeeding Reykjavik. The road ascending the mountains (which aren’t terribly high) twists and turns but is in fine condition with recently plowed snow on the summit. I parked in a small valley and took one of the many trails just to get a better idea of the place. Over a rise I hit upon a spectacular narrow valley with many rock formations being human size. The side of one cliff had caves, Qumran-like, but I doubt precious mss are awaiting there to be discovered. All in all, being out there was just another instance of the famous Icelandic sense of being watched by someone, somewhere nearby. At the same time this feeling isn’t intrusive despite the barren landscape but in a way, comforting. Part of this comes from the fact that so many places in Iceland have place names, even in a small area. This naming is a kind of taming which neutralizes otherwise foreboding locales.

Iceland has no defense force, such a small nation. The only “warship” is something smaller than a destroyer with a few guns mounted front and rearfor patrolling local waters. From time to time I see it pull in and out ofReykjavik’s smaller harbor.

Icelanders lack what you could call a sense of religious guilt, something for which Catholics are (in)famous. Not that they are immoral (far from it), but their inbuilt simplicity substitutes for guilt, so to speak. Eventhough Iceland is technically a Lutheran country, people here have been remarkably immune to what you could call Protestant guilt which can be more severe than the Catholic type. It’s a refreshing attitude towards life youdon’t pick up unless dealing with folks over an extended period of time.

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