Monday, May 21, 2007
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Today promises to be another beauty, so I plan to take advantage perhaps with a return visit to the Hengill area, source of geothermal heating for Reykjavik. The sun is blinding and intense, especially in the afternoon when I have to draw blinds on that side of the apt. It’s not unlike being under a spotlight with nowhere to hide. And that is true when outdoors…you can’t take refuge under a tree because there are none.
With the advent of the summer vacation season, approximately half the population will leave Iceland for holiday abroad. A favorite destination has always been Spain and Canary Islands, even during summer, yet by no means does this exclude Europe nor the US. Icelanders travel lightly but with as many (empty) suitcases as humanly possible. They have a reputation for this among foreign airport personnel. Reason: buy, buy and buy as much as they can carry and wear. I know one gal who bought three pants and wore them all on a return trip from Dublin…could hardly walk off the plane.
During this time from the Ascension last Thursday until a week from tomorrow (Pentecost) it’s good to ponder this special time when Jesus Christ was not on earth and before the Holy Spirit’s descent. Although the Gospel records the disciples’ inability to grasp Christ’s mission as noted after his Resurrection, they must have been confused all the more during these nine days.
“Are you going to get drunk tonight?” so said a co-worker yesterday afternoon. Not an untypical question on a Friday, since many people go downtown to hit the bars, well known to visitors to Reykjavik. Such a question may sound appalling. However, it is greatly misunderstood, being yet another manifestation of the impulsive, childlike nature of Icelanders. Yes, they do get drunk on the weekend and stay out to all hours. One has to be living in this environment to appreciate the situation, hard to explain otherwise.
Iceland has its share of Harley-Davidson bikes, beards and black jackets one associates with such people. Often on a weekend afternoon they gather at certain downtown spots to show off their bikes. However, like that childlike nature I just noted and have often noted earlier, it’s very different from the US. If some hardcore bikers from the US showed up, I’m sure they’d scatter like a flock of birds!
Friday, May 18, 2007
While listening to him, thoughts returned to yesterday when I visited two people whom I’ve known for years. They are spiritually minded yet have serious problems: one is afflicted by alcoholism and the other is focused upon political action to the detriment of his family life. As for the latter, for the past five consecutive weekends his wife has gone away with their two small kids, a sure sign divorce is looming. At the same time, these two friends are as wonderful as you could imagine. It’s difficult visiting them because I watch their lives go downhill in slow motion and can’t do a thing about it.
Last evening the Icelandic Alþingi formed a new government as a result of Saturday’s election, the Progressive Party now out after many years in power.
It's well know that Icelanders from Greenland settled in Anse-les-Meadows, Newfoundland, but left because of hostile relations with the natives. Many scholars claims that Newfoundland is the furtherst south the Icelanders traveled. However, I'm not so sure...talking about this with people here reveal that particular Icelandic impetuosity which, I believe, impelled them to go much further south. How much is up to speculation and debate.
Today is party cloudy, dead calm, quite a comparison after yesterday’s near hurricane force winds.
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
We had some sprinkles Wednesday afternoon which turned the air a bit humid. The soft rain left a nice spring-like aroma but with an Icelandic twist: instead of the earthy smell as in New England, we get a kind of rock scent due to the volcanic material as well as dust...an interesting variety.
As for the Ascension itself, chances are virtually no one here has a clue as to its significance, just that it´s a holiday. As with major holidays...and I´m thinking of the more recent Easter, people do know its meaning but again, treat it as time off. Although we're familiar with this, even in the US and Europe, we're dealing with a new type of ignorance which will have long term ramifications. As for Iceland, I´ve noticed that in a fundamentally Lutheran environment commemoration of holy days, while acknowledged, are watered-down, kind of sad. Such is the legacy of Martin Luther.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
By chance last evening on tv I hit upon a Danish show which hosted the American philosopher Daniel Dennett. Not long ago I finished his Breaking the Spell, the natural causes and development of religion where he, an admitted agnostic,sets forth some interesting ideas though in convoluted ways. From the part I saw, Dennett was addressing religion with respect to the usual ideas of it, making it an easy target difficult to refute. For some time now, I've thought, what would have happened if religion in the Wst developed concommitantly with meditation and spirituality as it had in places like India and China. I bit ideally stated but to make a point. In the West we have plenty of doctrine but little contemplation of the doctrine, distinct from theological and scholarly work done on it. At the same time, Christianity and Judaism make fine sense when their scriptures are viewed through this prism. as far as I can see, the only real integrating force that's been around is lctio divina, and that has been practiced by a small minority. At the same time, those do it are perceived as fine folks yet not quite with it, theologically speaking.
This led to another point. Both yesterday and today I enjoyed a running conversation with a young fellow at work about gnosticism. He asked my opinion, so I proceeded to speak in as simply and clearly as possible without taking a position. I.e., give the facts and let him mull over them. This man is into gothic stuff, not unpopular here but in an imitative way of what's going on elsewhere. That means the interest is naive, even innocent. He told me up front that young people have nothing to do with religion (in Iceland that translates as the state Lutheran Church). When I pressed him a bit more by bringing up lectio divina and meditation, immediately his interest perked. Not surprising, for as yet I have not failed to meet a person here or elsewhere disinterested in these matters. We agreed to continue our running conversation and look forward to this.
It looks like things are heating up in Pakistan which, to be sure, will set that region on the road to terrorism á la Iraq. As for that, everyone I’ve met in Iceland over the past year universally condemns America’s involvement in Iraq with choice words reserved for President Bush. At the same time, I’ve noticed a subtle politeness in that they don’t want to insult me in case I came out on his side.
The new fellow whom I´ve been training at foreign post has been on his own lest than a week. Unfortunately, last night he had to stay until midnight, 2 hours overtime! The only way to learn...
Sunday, May 13, 2007
Sixth Sunday of Easter, getting close to Pentecost, two weeks. The first reading for today is Rev 21.10-14 & 22-23, and the Gospel is Jn 14.23-9. First thing that struck me with the Revelation text is a parallel with the weeks before Advent as well as the beginning of that season. Reason: both deal with “the end,” a concept with wide, even bizarre interpretations as we all know. However, Revelation is tempered by the Gospel…and these words are quickly (and inconveniently) swept away. There terms like “love” (agape), “will make our home,” “Counselor” and “peace” are seldom if ever tied in with Revelation…such is the impression we get over the centuries. This brings up a fact I’ve been considering for some time and have mentioned it here, namely, the West’s dis-aptitude (is there’s such a word) for contemplation as you’d find in other cultures such as
Yesterday the party currently in power just eked out a victory with the Progressive Party coming in close. That means a coalition government will be formed shortly, nothing new, but some changes might be in the air. One of them would affect pensions and inflation. We’ll see how it goes over the next two weeks as reflected in the Icelandic krona verses foreign currencies.
Yesterday afternoon I decided to drive just east of where I live, a place I first visited two weeks ago, in order to enjoy the Great Outdoors. A bit on the windy side which made the dirt roads kick up lots of dust. Could feel the grit in between my teeth when I arrived home. There’s a large lake out there with summer homes, nice, but
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Today is the Big Day in Icelandic politics. Right now the time is a little after 9 am, early, but going out later on. More spectacular weather on store. Yesterday afternoon after work (got out at 3pm) I visited the Academy of Reykjavik, wanting to give the folks there a copy of some biblical and patristic software which they appreciated. However, I rushed it, wanting to get home before height of rush hour. In earlier entries I spoke often of driving habits here but haven’t recently. Perhaps a sign that I’ve gotten used to them. Still crazy as ever. I say a prayer each time before getting behind the wheel, even locally, which seems to be working. However, you never know…
Thursday, May 10, 2007
As for Rubentstein's book, Aristotle's Children mentioned yesterday, he brings up a subject dear to me. That is to say, he waxes eloquently about scholarship in the ancient sense of the word but with the added bonus of describing it an ecumenical setting. Obviously a thing of the past, though I'm sure small, unknown groups exist here and there. The sentence I quoted yesterday seems ideal and completely out of reach. Perhaps, but small examples where reasoned discourse shone brightly are worth keeping in mind, the other example being Plato's Academy. They stand out against the larger, dark background of brutal societies, yet their memories are sufficient to sustain others who are interested in preserving the best of what culture and religion have to offer. As for this in my current situation, Iceland, the Academy of Reykjavik which celebrated 10 years of its founding last Monday has the potential of being one such organization. I'd like it to take on the added twist of becoming a sort of Christian yeshiva. There people would gather around a table and pour over the Scriptures in the sense of doing lectio divina, not your typical Bible study groups. Let's hope that comes about.
Lots of anticipation on store for today, day before voting.
A fellow at work was beaming when he told me that he received DVDs of old Perry Mason television programs. He’s really into this, very simple and genuine in his appreciation of that genre. Though not my cup of tea, I enjoy listening to the way he takes such pleasure in them.
So, Saturday is The Big Day here in Iceland, voting. A friend of the Framsokn party…in power now but may be voted out…told me to visit party HQ as well as their chief rival. He confirmed that free eats will be offered, and since I visited Framsokn with him Monday, no problem about getting some grub.
I began a re-read of Richard Rubenstein’s Aristotle’s Children. Often I like to pick up again a book I’ve read 2-3 years ago which made an impression then to see how it registers now. Very good, this just after 30 pages. Rubenstein puts it well at the beginning of Chapter One: “It is hard not to think of 12th century Spain as a scholar’s paradise. The picture that comes to mind is that of a broad table, well lit by candles, on which are spread out dozens of manuscripts written in Syriac, Aramaic, Arabic, Hebrew and Greek. Around the table, poring over the manuscripts, taking notes or conversing animatedly are bearded Jews, tonsured Christian monks, turbaned Muslims and dark-haired Greeks.” The author continues by spelling out the magnitude of what rediscovery of ancient mss. by Arabs meant for the West. Not just that, but given the current “war on terror” which translates implicitly as war on (militant) Islam, it’s nice to see what can be. That is, wouldn’t it be great if such a climate could come into existence today, even in small enclaves around the world.
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
When the weather is sunny people try to grab as many rays as they can, even for a few minutes. Everywhere you look are people on benches, grass or just standing there. However, you must be careful against sunstroke which creeps up on you very quickly.
Everyone is hyped up now about the presidential elections to be held this Saturday. Results will be in at 10.10 pm, right on the dot. While the media is full of this, it isn’t as intrusive as the US, even France, which just had theirs. However, the last 3 days will be hectic. That reflects the Icelandic tendency to do things at the last minute. On Saturday the major parties will have open house for the public which means free eats…and one party is noted for the goodies they put out. To be sure, I’ll be there.
Tuesday, May 08, 2007
Today is noteworthy in that the Academy of Reykjavik (www.akademia.is: link in English though the page is out of date) celebrates its 10th anniversary, and I was invited to attend the festivities along with that fellow whom I collected last evening, member of the governing board. My role was to announce a scholarship for the religious and cultural heritage of Iceland. Deliberately vague at this point but will be refined shortly because the scholarship doesn’t kick in until January ’08. For now we wish to distinguish it from economics, science, etc. Though the Academy has prestige in Iceland, it’s short on funds, so this is the very first scholarship, a big occasion. About 120 people showed up including several dignitaries, governmental ministers and a leading presidential candidate (elections are this Saturday). Some of the ministers were women…not just women but gorgeous women, not untypical for Iceland. What a way to run a country…During my few minutes of fame when speaking of the scholarship, I wasn’t a bit nervous. The Academy is right by the bay, and while speaking, I gazed outside towards Mount Esja plus watched a few ships. Strange how your mind works even when in the spotlight. You have to remember that Iceland is a small nation, so being in the presence of so many influential people is not uncommon. Icelanders lack that awe or formality towards them as you’d find in other countries.
Sunday, May 06, 2007
Incredibly beautiful weather which translates as no wind, a day to be treasured. The all-pervasive silence away from urban areas...and you don´t have to go far...is compelling.
It started about two weeks ago. The rapid progression towards 24 hour light got into high gear which makes it difficult not to rise early unless you have dark curtains. I’m okay in that dept but still enough light creeps in to wake me earlier than desired. Even twilights make it hard to hit the sack, especially when the weather is so fine. Twilights are much longer than in other places, very special times to get out and enjoy. And so in certain ways this time of year is more difficult than winter. Starting about now you have to be careful of exposure to sunlight, that is, not wear a hat. These northern climes make for more intense sunlight. Then there are the cooler temps which can disguise the sun’s intensity. During one visit in the late 80s I suffered sunstroke once during an outdoor barbecue, so know what the experience is like.
Tomorrow (Monday) is the 10th anniversary of the founding of the Reykjavik Academy. Some celebrations are on tap throughout the day, so I’ll be on hand for most of them. Three weeks ago I did some overtime work at the post to have tomorrow off, so that’ll be nice. As for work, headed that way at 11am through 5pm which isn’t bad due to the easier going atmosphere.
“Don forget. Humans are chemical, not digital.” Maybe a bit too reductionist but not bad, considering. Don’t know where I got this…either from a book or some cable tv program!
Last evening on tv I saw coverage of Queen Elisabeth's visit to Jamestown, Va. The media always refers to her as "The Queen," as though she remained so over the United States. On her left was VP Cheney. Just looking at him gives me the creeps...that half smile, stooped shoulders and shifty eyes...the embodiment of sneakiness and sinister activity transpiring behind the public's eye.
Saturday, May 05, 2007
Today is the first of two days of the weekend during which I worked at the post, 8am-2pm. Tomorrow it’s 11am-5pm. This happens about once every two months, not bad, because business is slow.
En route home I saw about thirty vintage American cars pull out going to some kind of rally. All were in tip-top shape. This interest is fairly widespread in Iceland, i.e., American as opposed to European autos from the 50s and 60s. With the advent of “summer” as noted in a mid April entry, bikers are out as well. They have the usual black leather, grungy beards and biker-dolls on back. However, there’s something naïve about them compared to their American counterparts whom they try to imitate but come up short. As I’ve said often, don’t pay attention to signs, etc (in Icelandic), and you think you’re in the States.
Friday, May 04, 2007
This morning was remarkably calm. To take it in, at 7.30 I drove to a nearby park-like area with paths by the sea. So there was Mt. Esja, Reykjavik’s faithful companion, quite close or closer than downtown Reykjavik itself. The summit of this tabletop mountain was shrouded in clouds which deposited a light coating of snow. As typical of these northern climes, you could reach out and touch it, that’s how clear the atmosphere was. I’ve noted this on occasion and am impressed each time simply because you don’t find it elsewhere. Besides, it was a day without the fairly constant wind.
National elections are late next week, and the airwaves are filled with political campaigning. I don’t follow this much simply because no matter who gets into power, a coalition government is formed which keeps things pretty much the same. However, this time around there’s some anxiety that a party wanting to come into power—and it stands a 50/50 chance—wants to remove some subsidiaries for the elderly. Part of the reason, I gather, is that the economy is booming. Yet the elderly form a substantial voting block. How it affects the nation is a stronger krona in the fact of (weaker) foreign currencies. I don’t advise following this blog to keep up on Icelandic politics, just a few general impressions…
Wednesday, May 02, 2007
A nice day seems on tap. Early this morning I watched rain clouds way out on the ocean moving north which created several rainbows. In Iceland you don’t notice just the weather but weather systems because of the openness or huge expanses experienced each day.
Olla, a friend of mine who plays the violin in Iceland's National Symphony Orchestra, said she has a free ticket for next week. Orchestra members get a few to hand out, and I've had to decline these offers plenty of times due to work. It's a high priority and hopefully can make it after many delays.
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
I’m about 60% through Plato’s Phaedo, making brief notations as to Greek words with focus upon prepositions. Greek abounds in subtle uses of prepositions, and a proper understanding of them is essential. At this juncture what seemed tedious work is slamming into place, for I can refer back to ground covered which, in turn, sheds light on a text now at hand.
When I was listening to WARE on the Internet, a radio station based in Palmer, Mass, I heard an ad about a restaurant. They were offering Icelandic haddock. No way, José! Obviously frozen; can’t compare with the Real Stuff here.
Yesterday was cloudy but no rain; a stiff wind made outdoor activity not particularly pleasant. Because of the holiday, the local Bonus supermarket was closed, so I decided to take in Noatun, www.noatun.is, at Grafarholt. That is a new suburb Bonus, Noatun and Hagkaup are the three chief food centers in Iceland and are owned by the same small clique of families. There’s some resentment about this control, that they engage in price gouging. Not much of a choice…Bonus is the most popular with the other two in ascending order as far as prices and quality.
As for Grafarholt, it’s a new suburb with construction everywhere. That seems to be a snapshot of Iceland today: buildings going up everywhere you look. I don’t mean a development here and an apartment block there: there’s a veritable explosion of construction with cranes as numerous as trees. One friend mused, “where do they come from? After all, our population is only 300,000.” We both wish we had the answer. As I noted earlier, Iceland enjoys a mild climate due to the Gulf Stream. Shift its flow a degree or two, and instantly we become a mini-Greenland. I think of that each time I gaze at one of those huge apartment blocks going up.
Several times I’ve spoken of a yellow-hulled tanker-like vessel in Reykjavik harbor. Each and every day without exception it goes out there, circles around apparently aimlessly and does this for the bulk of the day. Kind of driving me crazy since I see the damn thing from my window.
Most mornings I tune into the AA radio station which broadcasts speakers from America, many of them repeats but then again, they seem to have new ones inserted on a regular basis. Quite inspiring, to be sure, because those speaking recount their terrible misdeeds and how they’ve recovered with the help of AA. The spiritual approach of AA is constant which accounts for its success. Virtually every speaker decries how often people within AA try to eliminate or water down this spiritual element, quite interesting. They are keen on discerning that modern tendency to either ignore or fight against things spiritual, a vigilance which is central to AA’s success.
Yesterday at work a fellow was telling me of an account in Icelandic history just before the Settlement in 1,000. It seems a delegate (he mentioned the name, don’t recall) came to Iceland in an attempt to gauge how there might feel about adopting Christianity. He said there was no need for conversion since the Icelanders were docile and already Christians in essence. I think this observation concurs with my consistent one, namely, that Icelanders are simple and direct by nature which is the greatest benefit of living here. My co-worker then quoted a short poem from an early priest about God above and present within each person. While common to Christianity, this sentiment seems inbred among Icelanders, for I’ve felt it many years. Problem is how to awaken it more. As for this co-worker, just the latest of many examples of the high literacy of Icelanders and their familiarity with their culture. Trying pulling that off in the US!