-Jan 7th, Epiphany Sunday and Westman Island. The flight here from Reykjavik (a mere 25 minutes) was delayed about 20 minutes in order to de-ice the plane. I was hoping for a good view but alas, the de-icing fluid covered the window almost the entire flight which, incidentally, was full. Also the light was dim at departure, 10.30 am. However, the de-icing fluid blew off sufficiently in order to behold the dramatic approach and landing at Westman. The plane had to make several maneuvers in and around mountain peaks, two of which are volcanoes. This consisted in a left then right and back to left turn to land. Then it straightens out at the last minute for the runway (whew!). Kari and I spent several hours together to discuss various future projects in association with the Academy of Reykjavik as well as inviting scholars from abroad. More on that as things develop.

-Yesterday was the last day of the Christmas season, a holiday in Iceland, hence the reason for being invited, and Westman Island has its own peculiar twist. First of all, a bunch of us crowded into two cars. This was a rather chaotic process, this one wanting such-and-such and the other wanting the contrary. Typical Icelandic squabbling, like a bunch of Italians arguing over what to do! However, it was all in good spirits, and we finally got underway about 30 minutes late, again typically Icelandic. Down near the town`s center…and this is at the base of a huge cliff—came the thirteen `lads of Christmas,` loose translation of pre-Christian spirits. Actually, they were half way up the other side of this cliff, coming around the corner with torches in hand. Then they got into a float of sorts behind which people follow with their children. The so-called `lads` reminded me of Scareface from the Texas Chainsaw Massacre. One of them was blurting out all sorts of warnings to kids, that they have to behavior in this the new year, else he`d send his compatriots after them before next Christmas. Right behind this float were a number Santa Clauses, a recent introduction to Iceland, carrying touches. First impression was that such an event would be terrifying to a child, and I saw more than one cry and run for cover. Actually one of the `lads` was by himself (rather, herself). She kind of runs the show and consisted of a large, witch-like head under which were about six people carrying it. Keep in mind that all this was taking place amid deafening noise and dozens of torches. Finally the parade came to a field where a bonfire was ignited topped off by fireworks. Boy, do the Icelanders love fireworks! I kept thinking of the US, how authorities and various organizations would recoil in horror at the unchecked handling of these things Next the `Christmas lads` walked around a fenced-off area rushing at children while threatening them. During this about a hundred teenagers dressed with hats and costumes danced around the bonfire. They were joined by some other `lads` but in quite horrifying costumes. Such was the end of the Christmas season, unforgettable!

-I took a flight home 10.30 am today and had a good view exiting Westman, again, a dramatic series of turns to avoid the mountains (and two volcanoes). The biggest problem was when I arrived at Reykjavik Airport: all the car doors were frozen, so I barely got in after jimmying around with the rear right door. This is not uncommon here due to blowing sleet and snow, so will pick up some de-icer to keep on hand.

-Jan 8th. A good friend of mine told me about his niece who`s 30 million krona in debt (approximately 70k = $1). Apparently this woman got into the export business, initially did well but got greedy and so owes her life to the banks. Such a problem is more common here in Iceland than elsewhere, amazingly so, and I asked my friend why. As I just noted, greed is the dominant factor at work (nothing new there) but is coupled by that Icelandic impulsiveness and simplicity. Many are like kids in a candy store, buying up everything they see. I think another factor at work is that Icelanders are nouvelle riche, that their economy really developed in the early 70s and grew ever since. While such debtors owe their lives to the bank, they get a type of clemency in the form of a loan by which to live and not end up in poverty which, by the way, is non-existent in Iceland. It`s considered a foreign problem, pure and simple. Because debtors receive this clemency, they take advantage of it to (you guessed it) go out and spend more. It`s an amazing situation by any standards: both debtor and bank win. As for banks, I may have noted in last year`s blog that the economy is booming though slowed a bit last year. Interest rates are about the highest in the world, around 12-15%. Talk about off-shore banking.

-For a few weeks now I`ve wanted to have my car washed thoroughly instead of the usual hose-down at the local gas station. By chance I visited the dealer who sold my car, and he gave me a free carwash ticket which I took advantage of due to the fine weather. The wash is close to Smaarlind, Iceland`s largest mall, so I went over there: the car came out brand new. I liked the decorations, polar bears, puffins and seals, quite Icelandic.

-This afternoon I stopped by a well-know antique bookstore whose owner (and son) I`ve know for years. I asked Bragi about the famous chess player, Bobby Fischer, who moved to Iceland not long ago, because he frequents this store. Perhaps I`ll be fortunate to run into him on one of my visits.

-Jan 9th. Icelanders leave on their Christmas lights much longer than Americans. For example, today quite a few remain light, possibly due to the tradition of Candlemas on Feb 2nd, but that is a guess.

-Often I think of the view of Iceland during my short trip from Westman to Reykjavik on Sunday. It was snowy and vast, with the larva nature of this island standing out with great clarity. The land seemed to drift off to somewhere up there; God only knows where that is, but it forms a semi-conscious back-drop in your mind against which your life plays out. The more immediate mountains and planes are clearly yet are overshadowed by that vastness which, compared to other places, is not remote but actively present. The pinkish-gray hue of the atmosphere due to the sun`s low slant simply adds to this atmosphere because regardless of what`s up close or distant, everything is permeated by this color. It has the unique ability to both blur and clarify. I`ve heard people describe Greenland in terms similar to these. However, the big difference is that Greenland`s vastness is intimidating compared with Iceland`s smallness and tameness. That gets back to what I observed in the 06 blog: wild yet oddly domestic.

-Today it is the coldest day I`ve experienced thus far, -10C, but clear as a bell with no wind. Early this afternoon for the first time I went to a redemption center, having built up a supply of malt cans, that specifically Icelandic non-alcoholic beverage. It is to Iceland what, for example, Guinness is to Ireland. Anyway, the redemption center is clean and efficient by American standards; got the equivalent of 15 cents per can and bottle, not bad. They even provide wash basins to clean your hands.

-Jan 10th. Last night (it`s now 9.15 am, kind of night!) we had light, powdery snow; current temp is -9C.

-A Lutheran priest at the church nearby used to teach Icelandic in high school. Yesterday when I visited him I was lamenting the fact, paradoxical as it sounds, of not being able to learn the language. The basic reason is that virtually everyone speaks perfect English. Not only that, but they speak with an American (as opposed to British) accent. I.e., for all intensive purposes Iceland is bi-lingual. That may sound fine, and one can get along here easy as pie with English only. However, I desire a more systematic way of learning Icelandic here and now. The post is supposed to offer classes this month which is fine, but I want to begin, well, yesterday. So this Lutheran priest took pity on me, so we began on the spot and will continue later this week. Icelanders are thrilled if a foreigner speaks Icelandic, however poorly, because it`s a matter of national pride given the difficulty of the language.

-Icelandic women are among the most beautiful in the world, certainly true. They may be divided into two classes: 1) those who are `Scandinavian` or blue-eye blonds and 2) those who are brunettes and/or red-heads. The latter are much more common due to the Celtic bloodline which to many visitors comes as a surprise if not a shock. Not only that, the majority of women have that distinctively Irish complexion: freckles and light, creamy skin.

-Tonight President Bush will speak to the nation about troop increase in Iraq. Ever since that has gone public, Icelanders have been jeering him; more accurately, more so than normal. People here love the United States and what it stands for and are therefore deeply saddened by current foreign policy.