-Jan 31st. Yesterday I got my Icelandic driver`s license, but they took away my Massachusetts one, not allowed to keep it. I don`t know if they`d return it should I visit later in the year which I plan on doing. Anyway, glad to have gotten this over with for one simple reason: a visitor`s license expires after six months (I`m past that stage), and if I get stopped for a violation or worse, an accident, I might be in trouble.
-Before going to the police for the license I spent a great 1 ½ hour with Bjarni þor, the Lutheran priest whose ceremony I attended Sunday. More specifically, we got down to the business of reading and pronouncing Icelandic. Fortunately I`ve had experience, but nothing like an expert (Bþ was a teacher of Icelandic earlier). Throughout all these comings and goings I tuned into radio stations where talk could be found, simply to have in the background and pay attention when I could.
-I had coffee around noon with a friend at LIN whose daughter was expected to deliver a child that afternoon and whose mother, living in Okalahoma with her brother, is dying (she goes there Feb 9th for a week`s visit). She told me how strange it is to be situated between two extremes, birth and death, and that never can you make sense of them. Nothing new, of course, but these sentiments pop up here and there in many conversations even if the person isn`t immediately involved. If there are two extremes plus an intermediary state, is it possible to step outside or withdraw from them?
-Nataph: a Hebrew verb which means to distill, to prophesy. I came across in Amos today, and it has a honey/perfume connotation, slow-moving dropping as opposed to a quick drip-drip. Two examples from the Song of Songs, where else?: 1) `the mountains shall drop down new wine` [5.5] and 2) `your lips drop honey` [4.11].
Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
-Jan 24th. Last night President Bush gave his State of the Union address greeted here largely by jeers and disgust. However, I`ve noticed that much criticism of the US as a whole is constructive, not simple bashing. The address came at a critical time here in Iceland the day before yesterday Iceland beat top-ranked France at handball and moves up to another level. This sport is followed passionately in Iceland, and each neighborhood has its own team. Second in popularity is basketball, both being indoor sports.
-The business/political summit has gotten underway in Davos, Switzerland, on the news here through BBC and CNN. First impression I got was the lack of religious representation even though I was aware fully that Davos has nothing to do with religion. In a lively conversation three days ago several of us were discussing how religion has become marginalized in Western society. Paradox is that religiously motivated actions (violence) makes the news regularly. Although this discussion had to be terminated earlier than expected, we did agree that engaging in religiously motivated violence imparts a unique harmony, even peace, that is available readily for those less reflectively motivated (which unfortunately includes a lot of people).
-The rain which began yesterday continued throughout the night: not strong but intermittent and has washed much of the snow away. Temp at 6am was 5C.
-The business/political summit has gotten underway in Davos, Switzerland, on the news here through BBC and CNN. First impression I got was the lack of religious representation even though I was aware fully that Davos has nothing to do with religion. In a lively conversation three days ago several of us were discussing how religion has become marginalized in Western society. Paradox is that religiously motivated actions (violence) makes the news regularly. Although this discussion had to be terminated earlier than expected, we did agree that engaging in religiously motivated violence imparts a unique harmony, even peace, that is available readily for those less reflectively motivated (which unfortunately includes a lot of people).
-The rain which began yesterday continued throughout the night: not strong but intermittent and has washed much of the snow away. Temp at 6am was 5C.
-Jan 23rd. Last night the temperature rose giving us periods of rain and wind; nothing major but a break to our cold snap which by New England standards isn`t that bad. Around 5.30pm I left for downtown to attend the beginners Icelandic class sponsored by the post. Ten showed up, mostly from Europe, and after the initial settling down (names, forms, etc) our teacher started with the basics. It was stuff I knew before and believe most of the course (terminates end of Feb) will be nothing new. However, I like the idea of starting at a given place and moving forward systematically. Best part is that the course has no tests or the like (am indisposed for that burden). In the long run, the hours given over to it add up to eventual Icelandic citizenship should I go that route in the future. Then again, I may ask the post to continue with a longer course since they encourage this, all paid for. I think the course will go well: starting tomorrow are classes during work time for which I get paid.
-After work I stopped off at LIN, the governmental office for student loans, to visit a lady I know well. She`s second in charge and has a lot of down-to-earth horse sense. We talked about what I entered recently, namely, that people who marry Icelanders and who live here often end up disliking the country. They fell in love, were (initially) oblivious to the fact that they`d have to move to Iceland and later found out they were stuck here. In other words, my friend said such was not my case even though it`s the case of 99% of foreigners in Iceland. Quite another thing to move here out of love for the country, etc. This ability to consult a wide variety of friends for various matters here in Iceland is a veritable gold mine for which I remain grateful.
-After work I stopped off at LIN, the governmental office for student loans, to visit a lady I know well. She`s second in charge and has a lot of down-to-earth horse sense. We talked about what I entered recently, namely, that people who marry Icelanders and who live here often end up disliking the country. They fell in love, were (initially) oblivious to the fact that they`d have to move to Iceland and later found out they were stuck here. In other words, my friend said such was not my case even though it`s the case of 99% of foreigners in Iceland. Quite another thing to move here out of love for the country, etc. This ability to consult a wide variety of friends for various matters here in Iceland is a veritable gold mine for which I remain grateful.
Monday, January 22, 2007
-Jan 22nd. Yesterday I and some folks went to a large horse farm in nearby Hafnarfjordur where they had open house for young kids. The farm has a course for those 8 years old and up, how to take care of them etc. It was the first time in a while that I got up close and personal with these beasts, very shaggy, small and obviously adorable. The entire area was filled with riders, very impressive, because from what I gather, the Icelandic horse has a gait opposite other breeds. This enables the rider to be very still, not moving with the horse. What makes the sight even stranger is the comparative size of the horse and rider, almost cartoon-like.
-On Friday I caught a cold which lingers into today and probably not helped by being outdoors at the horse farm yesterday. I asked the boss to let me out an hour earlier to rest, for this evening starts the month long course in Icelandic offered by the post. A month seems too short but better than nothing. Perhaps I can expand it afterwards.
-On Friday I caught a cold which lingers into today and probably not helped by being outdoors at the horse farm yesterday. I asked the boss to let me out an hour earlier to rest, for this evening starts the month long course in Icelandic offered by the post. A month seems too short but better than nothing. Perhaps I can expand it afterwards.
Sunday, January 21, 2007
-Jan 21st, Third Sunday in Ordinary Time. The first reading is Neh 8.2-10 and the Gospel is Lk 1.1-4 & 4.14-21. I put a few observations line-by-line with regard to Nehemiah:
-Vs. 2: Ezra the scribe (sopher) to bring the book (sepher) of the law (torah) of Moses. Here the distinction between man and that which is written is barely made, and extends to torah. The context of is within that of listening to that which is written (sepher). Though not spelled out, the Hebrew words and text give a sense of immediacy between God, Moses and Ezra the sopher.
-Vs. 3: `the ears of the people were attentive to the sopher of the torah. The Hebrew text lacks `attentive` almost as though to show there`s no need to insert such a word. By that I mean ears = sopher/torah, like that unity I just noted.
-Vs. 5 has Ezra opening the sopher before everyone; not only that he was above them on a platform, not entirely unlike Moses upon Mt. Sinai. Interesting that the people stood as soon as Ezra opened the book; no other signal was required.
-Finally, vs. 8 mentions several attendants of Ezra help the people `understand the law` as they `read from the law of God clearly` [vs. 9]. The Hebrew for `reading` is qara`, more specifically, to call. Here it is used with the preposition b- prefaced to sepher, a kind of reading-in the sepher followed by the same preposition prefixed to torah, a reading in the torah. These attendants performed their task `clearly` or perash. This term derives from a verbal root meaning to separate or spread out and thus implies a concentrated bit of information requiring dilution, if you will.
-Today`s Gospel runs a pattern not unlike the one just described, for at the beginning of his account Luke wishes to state his purpose for writing. The chief difference is that Luke does it for an audience who will read his text whereas with Ezra, people listened to it. Here are a few brief notes:
-`Many have undertaken` or in Greek, have put their hands to: signifies not necessarily bad accounts but can intimate lack of inspiration by the Holy Spirit.
-`to compile a narrative:` anatasso or to arrange in a row. This approach differs (favorably) from the somewhat hit-and-miss `undertaken` just noted. The verb`s object is diegesis or `narrative,` a report verified by reliable witnesses.
-`to know the truth of which you have been informed.` Asphalia is `truth` or more accurately, that which is safe from falling. Again, keep in mind that such asphalia results more from reading the text than from hearing it as in Nehemiah.
-Last evening I went to some friends who held a birthday party for an 11 year old girl, very nice, with about a dozen of her friends present. The father, whom I met several times earlier, arrived well after the initial celebrations, an unwelcome guest due to his schizophrenic-alcoholic condition (nice, huh?). Anyway, he stayed in the background, left early, barely having made a dent upon his daughter at this joyful time. However, I watched carefully her face; she was aware of all that was going on in the background, and I could see these impressions piling upon each other one by one to set the stage for big problems later on.
-At the party I was introduced to the mother of one of the children; from former East Germany, who married and Icelander and has been living here 10 years now. She was just like those foreigners I described earlier: they married (an Icelander) but never adapted to the country. It`s a good lesson, one that makes me feel I`m here for the right reasons. Anyway, this lady made some interesting, humorous comparisons between East Germany and Iceland: insistence upon identification (Iceland`s `kennitala` or social security no.), lack of choices, especially food. In a small place such as Iceland you`re bound to run up against this. Though obvious, foreigners who`ve moved here never seem to bridge the gap between perception and reality. While she was talking, I paid special attention to that distinction between her marriage and the country from which her husband came; barely a trace of resolution between the two. I treasure these moments because they are invaluable lessons for me personally.
-Vs. 2: Ezra the scribe (sopher) to bring the book (sepher) of the law (torah) of Moses. Here the distinction between man and that which is written is barely made, and extends to torah. The context of is within that of listening to that which is written (sepher). Though not spelled out, the Hebrew words and text give a sense of immediacy between God, Moses and Ezra the sopher.
-Vs. 3: `the ears of the people were attentive to the sopher of the torah. The Hebrew text lacks `attentive` almost as though to show there`s no need to insert such a word. By that I mean ears = sopher/torah, like that unity I just noted.
-Vs. 5 has Ezra opening the sopher before everyone; not only that he was above them on a platform, not entirely unlike Moses upon Mt. Sinai. Interesting that the people stood as soon as Ezra opened the book; no other signal was required.
-Finally, vs. 8 mentions several attendants of Ezra help the people `understand the law` as they `read from the law of God clearly` [vs. 9]. The Hebrew for `reading` is qara`, more specifically, to call. Here it is used with the preposition b- prefaced to sepher, a kind of reading-in the sepher followed by the same preposition prefixed to torah, a reading in the torah. These attendants performed their task `clearly` or perash. This term derives from a verbal root meaning to separate or spread out and thus implies a concentrated bit of information requiring dilution, if you will.
-Today`s Gospel runs a pattern not unlike the one just described, for at the beginning of his account Luke wishes to state his purpose for writing. The chief difference is that Luke does it for an audience who will read his text whereas with Ezra, people listened to it. Here are a few brief notes:
-`Many have undertaken` or in Greek, have put their hands to: signifies not necessarily bad accounts but can intimate lack of inspiration by the Holy Spirit.
-`to compile a narrative:` anatasso or to arrange in a row. This approach differs (favorably) from the somewhat hit-and-miss `undertaken` just noted. The verb`s object is diegesis or `narrative,` a report verified by reliable witnesses.
-`to know the truth of which you have been informed.` Asphalia is `truth` or more accurately, that which is safe from falling. Again, keep in mind that such asphalia results more from reading the text than from hearing it as in Nehemiah.
-Last evening I went to some friends who held a birthday party for an 11 year old girl, very nice, with about a dozen of her friends present. The father, whom I met several times earlier, arrived well after the initial celebrations, an unwelcome guest due to his schizophrenic-alcoholic condition (nice, huh?). Anyway, he stayed in the background, left early, barely having made a dent upon his daughter at this joyful time. However, I watched carefully her face; she was aware of all that was going on in the background, and I could see these impressions piling upon each other one by one to set the stage for big problems later on.
-At the party I was introduced to the mother of one of the children; from former East Germany, who married and Icelander and has been living here 10 years now. She was just like those foreigners I described earlier: they married (an Icelander) but never adapted to the country. It`s a good lesson, one that makes me feel I`m here for the right reasons. Anyway, this lady made some interesting, humorous comparisons between East Germany and Iceland: insistence upon identification (Iceland`s `kennitala` or social security no.), lack of choices, especially food. In a small place such as Iceland you`re bound to run up against this. Though obvious, foreigners who`ve moved here never seem to bridge the gap between perception and reality. While she was talking, I paid special attention to that distinction between her marriage and the country from which her husband came; barely a trace of resolution between the two. I treasure these moments because they are invaluable lessons for me personally.
Saturday, January 20, 2007
-Jan 14th. It finally stopped snowing around noon, although last night we received and through this morning we got the light, fluffy stuff. It served to create an amazing sight when I woke up, a yellowish hue created by the street lights, and not the slightest sound. Even snow in Iceland seems purer than elsewhere; maybe my imagination or wishful thinking but seems to have some truth. The negative side: 60 car accidents, most minor, in Reykjavik. No surprise there, given my earlier remarks in the 06 blog about Icelandic driving habits.
-`World series?` A remark from Elli, weekend floor boss at work today about the American World Series, that it doesn`t represent the world, only taking place within the USA. Elli is a rough-and-ready sort of fellow: tall, thin and rangy with a poker face. However, this belies a kindness I`ve come to appreciate very much in the work place. Elli also noted that Americans like to say they`re `going to Europe.` I paused for a moment, what was he getting at, and then realized that Americans tend to lump European countries into one lump. I love these little bits and pieces of what Icelanders think.
-Some months ago at work there was an American Jew, since fired, who was very defensive about his heritage. I recall several Icelanders remark unfavorably though not with mean spirit about Israel`s invasion of Lebanon this past summer. It set off this fellow big time who kept repeating how the Jews were horribly treated during the Holocaust. While undeniable, I`ve seen the Holocaust transformed into a weapon adroitly wielded by some Jews. If anyone criticizes Israel, not necessarily bad, automatically he or she becomes anti-Semitic and implicitly aligned with the Nazis who perpetrated the Holocaust. That might be a bit exaggerated but contains some truth which needs to be put out there so the Holocaust isn`t abused…and I mean by Jews.
-My work at the post consists of 3 afternoon shifts (2-10.30) in a row followed by three in the morning with an occasional weekend thrown in which I don`t mind. However, Friday nights…and we close at 9pm…for some reason or other have tension or things go wrong. Nothing major, just an overall atmosphere. I don`t know why, the work load isn`t special. Perhaps it has something to do with people wanting to get out, weekends being notorious for partying here in Iceland.
-Back in or around 1986 Reagan and Gorbachev met in Iceland at what`s called the Hofdi House, right by the sea. Several times a week I pass by it and think that despite the disappointment that came from that meeting, it was a turning point which led to the eventual end of the Cold War. As for that period in history, it looks benign compared to the world after 9-11. Too bad Iceland doesn’t capitalize on that summit; makes a terrific locale for meetings of reconciliation.
-For the first time since I arrived here I decided to stop in a local fish shop (of which there are many neighborhood ones here) to get some fresh haddock. Don`t know what I haven`t before, just that I didn`t. What a treat, like nothing else, so soft it melts in your mouth. Yes, Icelandic fish is unsurpassed.
-Jan 15th. Second Sunday in Ordinary Time. I check to see if there was a First Sunday but no. Anyway, today`s Gospel is Jn 2.1-11, Cana wedding feast. This is the first time Jesus says his hour has not yet come in response to his mother`s statement about the people having no wine, this not being a request, even indirectly, for Jesus to provide more. The verse right after today`s Gospel excerpt says that Jesus, his mother, brother and disciples went to Capernaum for several days, nothing more. Perhaps it was then that Jesus talked his `hour` and manifestation of glory (cf. vs. 11), concepts new to them which were destined to be played out in other circumstances. For example, the Gospel continues with Jesus driving out money-changers from the temple. At this point many people saw `signs` which he had done. Compare this sign (semeion) with that of vs. 11.
-In the Book of Amos I came across a frequent Old Testament notion, remnant (she`ryth). The verbal root, always important to understand deeper levels, means to remain, be left, to survive. Throughout Israel`s history a small group somehow makes it through, just barely. `Remnant` has a comforting tone despite the usually harsh conditions which brought about destruction of the larger nation, that each person has a chance of coming off all right. Not everybody, of course, ends up in the remnant. However, the possibility that one might do so has a thrill about it difficult to put into words. Actually, the true mission of Israel (and this is often extended to the Church) is to remain small. This is difficult if not impossible to maintain, hence the frequent growth of that remnant into a larger group which, in turn, collapses.
-Recently tv had was a show on Moses of which I caught just a fleeting glimpse. Like many such presentations, they go into historical documents (i.e., the Bible) and compare it with physical places, etc. Such an approach is common, trying to bring together a spiritual record with an historical one. Somehow this misses the point and has missed it so much that we`re not aware of it. This approach makes religious beliefs susceptible to assaults from evolution theory: the list is endless, really. I don`t think evidence from history and science, when thrown up against religion, should pose a problem. Sacred texts are meant to be read in the spirit of lectio divina. Okay, let`s say we do that. Then someone might come along and justifiably ask how we are to reconcile our lectio with history-science. A valid response is that lectio is a discipline in its own right which has validity if you`re doing meditation. That is the chief criterion and at the heart of an order or discipline subject to pretty much the same rules of validation. You have to do both meditation and lectio to see if it`s worth while and have it validated by others who`ve done the same. This is where Ken Wilbur`s book, Eye to Eye has a valuable contribution. He says contemplation and lectio (though doesn`t use that word but implies it) are just as valid as any other scientific endeavor. The problem? Nobody has done it for years or too few are doing it now; so few that we equate this paucity with non-existence. Into this vacuum steps the religious vs. scientific/historical approach so well organized and discipline that it blows away any competition.
-Jan 16th. Yesterday after work (every 6 weeks I do the weekends, actually enjoyable because it`s easy) I joined some folks at a nearby ski slope. They had brought their children there to slide down a hill popular among locals. Although it was dark (4pm), there were plenty of lights. All in all, a fine time just hanging out.
-Icelanders, like people everywhere, have their share of anxieties. While at that ski slope I and two others talked about this, yet Icelanders seem to lack that heavy-duty spirit of introspection as with Americans. Ever since my arrival here I`ve noticed that, whether it comes up in conversation or not. Many visitors, even casual tourists, note this. Over an extended period of time this carefree attitude sinks in more and more which in my mind is a real inculcation into Icelandic society. You pick out a characteristic, mull over it a while and finally adopt it. How, when or where this occurs is beyond one`s control, it simply happens. Then you wake up and discover that you have what they have.
-We`re all familiar with Islamic religious militancy which makes its presence felt every day in the media. Although you don`t hear it said openly, there is a tacit view that Islam = terrorism. Better, Muslims = terrorists. Going beyond that perception I am curious to see how religion (Islam or otherwise) gives meaning to people and motivates them to do things beyond human endurance. It seems that religion, even in less extreme forms, bestows a certain equilibrium within oneself, levels doubts and self-introspection, which on the surface may look fine. A person under the spell of more extreme forms of religion is perhaps the furthest away from another form of self-introspection, that of philosophia. There doubt or aporia is deliberately cultivated which has a dynamic very different from the kind of religion familiar to most of us. Anyway, I picked this idea up while pondering over some points by Hans Vaihinger, his interesting book entitled As If.
-Jan 16th, i.e., the real 16th. For the past number of entries I`ve been a day behind which is because of my work situation. At the foreign desk in the post we keep the calendar one day ahead because mail abroad goes out then. And so I`ve gotten into the habit of thinking in terms of one day ahead, a bit confusing for regular life.
-Ever since I arrived here last July I`ve been trying to sort out the attitude Icelanders have towards work, very different from Americans. Among other things, I noticed that they are laid back, love to chat and do things at the last minute. You have to be among Icelanders to appreciate this compared with observing it externally. Perhaps it`s my greatest lesson as I become inculcated more fully into society, is full of surprises, all of which have been positive. Two examples: several part time younger works whom I`ve gotten to know help me out on occasion. They`re constantly chatting away, seem disorganized, but when it comes to crunch time, they go at it with a determination that`d make an American boss green with envy. Remember the Gospel parable of the man who hired workers at the 11th hour and who got the same pay as the early ones? Jesus must have had in mind Icelanders. The other example: I`m scheduled to take classes in Icelandic grammar, and some classes conflict with my work. The email response from my boss, very typical, was `don`t worry. We`ll work something out at the last minute.` Last minute, so Icelandic, and I can trust it will work out. As for my dept, when I see the need for something to be done in an hour or two, sometimes I fear it won`t get done but when the time comes, no problem. Icelanders have a can-do attitude much like Americans which sets them off from Europeans who seem more passive to authority. Authority. Now that`s a word at which Icelanders recoil in any form or shape. It`s another characteristic you can pick up only immersed in society, namely, the attitude of those in authority concerning people under them. Such persons (and I see this in situations other than my own) don`t lord it over their employees but are more like comrades. They must be else they`d be assaulted on the spot, as one friend told me. And so Icelandic society is a strange combo of disorganization and (last minute) all-out determination.
-For the first time yesterday I noticed a lengthening of daylight hours, dawn coming slightly before 11am. Also there seems to be more twilight both ends of the day. After all, we`re almost a month out from the winter solstice.
-Jan 17th. `Hah.` This is the most common word (if you can call it that technically) in Icelandic, used dozens of times a day. It`s a combination of `what did you say?`, surprise or spontaneously uttered. Emphasis is upon the first `h` and with varying degrees to reveal one`s attitude or state of mind. After a while you say it just as much as a native speaker. At first I was reluctant because `hah` sounds impolite, rude or just plain silly. Experience quickly teaches not so, very much taken for granted.
-Another common word is `sko.` It has no meaning at all, a type of interjection when people are pausing briefly to find words. `Sko` is said abruptly and softly, emphasis upon the `sk` with the `o` falling off. Something akin to `like` used by many American kids.
-Last evening about 4 the wind started to intensify until in some places there were near white-out conditions: no new snow but that which had fallen late last week. When I was passing through the rotary close to my apartment there were a few seconds I couldn`t see a thing in front of me. Not only that, but for a few meters the snow was very thick. This came as quite a change since we`ve had close to dead-calm conditions since New Year`s day.
-18th Jan. Today I got out of work early, around 3pm, after a staff meeting where the Head Honcho told us that in three years the post, which is privately owned, will face competition from several other companies. Isleskur Posturinn itself went private 4 years back, as well as the electric and heating companies. A lot of people complain that much of Icelandic commerce is controlled by a handful of super-rich people, that is, they`re in charge of previously government owned enterprises.
-En route home I went along Saebraut which hugs the coast and gives a commanding view of Mt. Esja to the north, that is, across Reykjavik`s broad harbor. The sunlight turned the closer snow-covered mountains a lovely pink while those in the background were much whiter though still tinged with pink. A few jet contrails were overhead which, from what I was told, are of flights from Europe to Japan and China over the North Pole. In other lands these contrails create a longing to go over the western horizon, especially at sunset, to some distant land. Not so in Iceland. Seeing them makes you appreciate that you are already there where the contrails lead symbolically.
-`World series?` A remark from Elli, weekend floor boss at work today about the American World Series, that it doesn`t represent the world, only taking place within the USA. Elli is a rough-and-ready sort of fellow: tall, thin and rangy with a poker face. However, this belies a kindness I`ve come to appreciate very much in the work place. Elli also noted that Americans like to say they`re `going to Europe.` I paused for a moment, what was he getting at, and then realized that Americans tend to lump European countries into one lump. I love these little bits and pieces of what Icelanders think.
-Some months ago at work there was an American Jew, since fired, who was very defensive about his heritage. I recall several Icelanders remark unfavorably though not with mean spirit about Israel`s invasion of Lebanon this past summer. It set off this fellow big time who kept repeating how the Jews were horribly treated during the Holocaust. While undeniable, I`ve seen the Holocaust transformed into a weapon adroitly wielded by some Jews. If anyone criticizes Israel, not necessarily bad, automatically he or she becomes anti-Semitic and implicitly aligned with the Nazis who perpetrated the Holocaust. That might be a bit exaggerated but contains some truth which needs to be put out there so the Holocaust isn`t abused…and I mean by Jews.
-My work at the post consists of 3 afternoon shifts (2-10.30) in a row followed by three in the morning with an occasional weekend thrown in which I don`t mind. However, Friday nights…and we close at 9pm…for some reason or other have tension or things go wrong. Nothing major, just an overall atmosphere. I don`t know why, the work load isn`t special. Perhaps it has something to do with people wanting to get out, weekends being notorious for partying here in Iceland.
-Back in or around 1986 Reagan and Gorbachev met in Iceland at what`s called the Hofdi House, right by the sea. Several times a week I pass by it and think that despite the disappointment that came from that meeting, it was a turning point which led to the eventual end of the Cold War. As for that period in history, it looks benign compared to the world after 9-11. Too bad Iceland doesn’t capitalize on that summit; makes a terrific locale for meetings of reconciliation.
-For the first time since I arrived here I decided to stop in a local fish shop (of which there are many neighborhood ones here) to get some fresh haddock. Don`t know what I haven`t before, just that I didn`t. What a treat, like nothing else, so soft it melts in your mouth. Yes, Icelandic fish is unsurpassed.
-Jan 15th. Second Sunday in Ordinary Time. I check to see if there was a First Sunday but no. Anyway, today`s Gospel is Jn 2.1-11, Cana wedding feast. This is the first time Jesus says his hour has not yet come in response to his mother`s statement about the people having no wine, this not being a request, even indirectly, for Jesus to provide more. The verse right after today`s Gospel excerpt says that Jesus, his mother, brother and disciples went to Capernaum for several days, nothing more. Perhaps it was then that Jesus talked his `hour` and manifestation of glory (cf. vs. 11), concepts new to them which were destined to be played out in other circumstances. For example, the Gospel continues with Jesus driving out money-changers from the temple. At this point many people saw `signs` which he had done. Compare this sign (semeion) with that of vs. 11.
-In the Book of Amos I came across a frequent Old Testament notion, remnant (she`ryth). The verbal root, always important to understand deeper levels, means to remain, be left, to survive. Throughout Israel`s history a small group somehow makes it through, just barely. `Remnant` has a comforting tone despite the usually harsh conditions which brought about destruction of the larger nation, that each person has a chance of coming off all right. Not everybody, of course, ends up in the remnant. However, the possibility that one might do so has a thrill about it difficult to put into words. Actually, the true mission of Israel (and this is often extended to the Church) is to remain small. This is difficult if not impossible to maintain, hence the frequent growth of that remnant into a larger group which, in turn, collapses.
-Recently tv had was a show on Moses of which I caught just a fleeting glimpse. Like many such presentations, they go into historical documents (i.e., the Bible) and compare it with physical places, etc. Such an approach is common, trying to bring together a spiritual record with an historical one. Somehow this misses the point and has missed it so much that we`re not aware of it. This approach makes religious beliefs susceptible to assaults from evolution theory: the list is endless, really. I don`t think evidence from history and science, when thrown up against religion, should pose a problem. Sacred texts are meant to be read in the spirit of lectio divina. Okay, let`s say we do that. Then someone might come along and justifiably ask how we are to reconcile our lectio with history-science. A valid response is that lectio is a discipline in its own right which has validity if you`re doing meditation. That is the chief criterion and at the heart of an order or discipline subject to pretty much the same rules of validation. You have to do both meditation and lectio to see if it`s worth while and have it validated by others who`ve done the same. This is where Ken Wilbur`s book, Eye to Eye has a valuable contribution. He says contemplation and lectio (though doesn`t use that word but implies it) are just as valid as any other scientific endeavor. The problem? Nobody has done it for years or too few are doing it now; so few that we equate this paucity with non-existence. Into this vacuum steps the religious vs. scientific/historical approach so well organized and discipline that it blows away any competition.
-Jan 16th. Yesterday after work (every 6 weeks I do the weekends, actually enjoyable because it`s easy) I joined some folks at a nearby ski slope. They had brought their children there to slide down a hill popular among locals. Although it was dark (4pm), there were plenty of lights. All in all, a fine time just hanging out.
-Icelanders, like people everywhere, have their share of anxieties. While at that ski slope I and two others talked about this, yet Icelanders seem to lack that heavy-duty spirit of introspection as with Americans. Ever since my arrival here I`ve noticed that, whether it comes up in conversation or not. Many visitors, even casual tourists, note this. Over an extended period of time this carefree attitude sinks in more and more which in my mind is a real inculcation into Icelandic society. You pick out a characteristic, mull over it a while and finally adopt it. How, when or where this occurs is beyond one`s control, it simply happens. Then you wake up and discover that you have what they have.
-We`re all familiar with Islamic religious militancy which makes its presence felt every day in the media. Although you don`t hear it said openly, there is a tacit view that Islam = terrorism. Better, Muslims = terrorists. Going beyond that perception I am curious to see how religion (Islam or otherwise) gives meaning to people and motivates them to do things beyond human endurance. It seems that religion, even in less extreme forms, bestows a certain equilibrium within oneself, levels doubts and self-introspection, which on the surface may look fine. A person under the spell of more extreme forms of religion is perhaps the furthest away from another form of self-introspection, that of philosophia. There doubt or aporia is deliberately cultivated which has a dynamic very different from the kind of religion familiar to most of us. Anyway, I picked this idea up while pondering over some points by Hans Vaihinger, his interesting book entitled As If.
-Jan 16th, i.e., the real 16th. For the past number of entries I`ve been a day behind which is because of my work situation. At the foreign desk in the post we keep the calendar one day ahead because mail abroad goes out then. And so I`ve gotten into the habit of thinking in terms of one day ahead, a bit confusing for regular life.
-Ever since I arrived here last July I`ve been trying to sort out the attitude Icelanders have towards work, very different from Americans. Among other things, I noticed that they are laid back, love to chat and do things at the last minute. You have to be among Icelanders to appreciate this compared with observing it externally. Perhaps it`s my greatest lesson as I become inculcated more fully into society, is full of surprises, all of which have been positive. Two examples: several part time younger works whom I`ve gotten to know help me out on occasion. They`re constantly chatting away, seem disorganized, but when it comes to crunch time, they go at it with a determination that`d make an American boss green with envy. Remember the Gospel parable of the man who hired workers at the 11th hour and who got the same pay as the early ones? Jesus must have had in mind Icelanders. The other example: I`m scheduled to take classes in Icelandic grammar, and some classes conflict with my work. The email response from my boss, very typical, was `don`t worry. We`ll work something out at the last minute.` Last minute, so Icelandic, and I can trust it will work out. As for my dept, when I see the need for something to be done in an hour or two, sometimes I fear it won`t get done but when the time comes, no problem. Icelanders have a can-do attitude much like Americans which sets them off from Europeans who seem more passive to authority. Authority. Now that`s a word at which Icelanders recoil in any form or shape. It`s another characteristic you can pick up only immersed in society, namely, the attitude of those in authority concerning people under them. Such persons (and I see this in situations other than my own) don`t lord it over their employees but are more like comrades. They must be else they`d be assaulted on the spot, as one friend told me. And so Icelandic society is a strange combo of disorganization and (last minute) all-out determination.
-For the first time yesterday I noticed a lengthening of daylight hours, dawn coming slightly before 11am. Also there seems to be more twilight both ends of the day. After all, we`re almost a month out from the winter solstice.
-Jan 17th. `Hah.` This is the most common word (if you can call it that technically) in Icelandic, used dozens of times a day. It`s a combination of `what did you say?`, surprise or spontaneously uttered. Emphasis is upon the first `h` and with varying degrees to reveal one`s attitude or state of mind. After a while you say it just as much as a native speaker. At first I was reluctant because `hah` sounds impolite, rude or just plain silly. Experience quickly teaches not so, very much taken for granted.
-Another common word is `sko.` It has no meaning at all, a type of interjection when people are pausing briefly to find words. `Sko` is said abruptly and softly, emphasis upon the `sk` with the `o` falling off. Something akin to `like` used by many American kids.
-Last evening about 4 the wind started to intensify until in some places there were near white-out conditions: no new snow but that which had fallen late last week. When I was passing through the rotary close to my apartment there were a few seconds I couldn`t see a thing in front of me. Not only that, but for a few meters the snow was very thick. This came as quite a change since we`ve had close to dead-calm conditions since New Year`s day.
-18th Jan. Today I got out of work early, around 3pm, after a staff meeting where the Head Honcho told us that in three years the post, which is privately owned, will face competition from several other companies. Isleskur Posturinn itself went private 4 years back, as well as the electric and heating companies. A lot of people complain that much of Icelandic commerce is controlled by a handful of super-rich people, that is, they`re in charge of previously government owned enterprises.
-En route home I went along Saebraut which hugs the coast and gives a commanding view of Mt. Esja to the north, that is, across Reykjavik`s broad harbor. The sunlight turned the closer snow-covered mountains a lovely pink while those in the background were much whiter though still tinged with pink. A few jet contrails were overhead which, from what I was told, are of flights from Europe to Japan and China over the North Pole. In other lands these contrails create a longing to go over the western horizon, especially at sunset, to some distant land. Not so in Iceland. Seeing them makes you appreciate that you are already there where the contrails lead symbolically.
-Jan 20th. While I continued to help Sigurjon sort bags for part of yesterday, I had a conversation with a worker at the post. He was a carpenter hanging sheets of insulation, the indoor section where small delivery trucks enter. This fellow said that he was `clothing the building.` I.e, the Icelandic way of saying that he was putting up insulation. I treasure these little moments throughout the day, that is, when I strike up a conversation with people who don`t know English, the best way to practice. There`s always reluctance to do this, especially with a difficult language as Icelandic, yet each and every person with whom I come in contact are proud of me. That needs to be re-enforced by classes which, by the way, start this coming Monday evening. We`ll see how they go; only a month but maybe more in depth classes later. After all the post pays for all this including time spent in class itself.
-Another note about working at the post: I never really considered it as work since the people and bosses are great. The other feature which I realize more and more is that the post is not unlike one huge university which specializes in Icelandic. However, there is a problem not there but in Iceland generally speaking. With the exception of the elderly and very young, everyone speaks English. They love to practice it, so that`s a temptation to be avoided.
-The weather continues quite cold by Icelandic standards, about 5 degrees below freezing. But as many say, the cold is no problem, just the wind, but that for the most part hasn`t posed a problem. Cold in that our situation in the mid-Atlantic serves to moderate the temps.
-Suddenly this morning around 9.30 it became much lighter than I had noticed in recent days. I think it has to do with our location so far north, where the pear-shaped earth has a greater curvature compared with further south.
-Another note about working at the post: I never really considered it as work since the people and bosses are great. The other feature which I realize more and more is that the post is not unlike one huge university which specializes in Icelandic. However, there is a problem not there but in Iceland generally speaking. With the exception of the elderly and very young, everyone speaks English. They love to practice it, so that`s a temptation to be avoided.
-The weather continues quite cold by Icelandic standards, about 5 degrees below freezing. But as many say, the cold is no problem, just the wind, but that for the most part hasn`t posed a problem. Cold in that our situation in the mid-Atlantic serves to moderate the temps.
-Suddenly this morning around 9.30 it became much lighter than I had noticed in recent days. I think it has to do with our location so far north, where the pear-shaped earth has a greater curvature compared with further south.
Thursday, January 18, 2007
-Jan 19th. Brilliant northern lights all last night: waved in the sky like multi-colored curtains swaying in the wind. We haven`t had them for two weeks or so even though it had been clear. For the past day or two Britain and Europe were hit by powerful storms. They had passed to the south of us which normally creates high pressure areas. The high wind I had noted was a byproduct of that storm while in the mid Atlantic.
-There`s a 19th year old fellow at work by the name of Sigurjon who started before Christmas. I thought he was one of the temporary workers; not sure he is continuing on but enjoy talking with him. While I`m on the morning shift or from 8-3 there`s not much to do in my department so I help him sort out various large mail bags. A month prior to Christmas we got a large container parked out back to store existing bags. Actually it`s the largest size container and is chock full of bags. Now with the rush season over, that fellow and an elderly man who helps out gradually are taking the bags in, marking them and returning to their respective countries. This all takes place way in the back of the large building out of sight of most people so we take it easy while at the same time steadily chopping away at the bags. On occasion are two other young fellows, Geir and Atli, who are good friends and make up a terrific comedy team. They stand in contrast to Sigurjon who is more serious and thoughtful. Geir is as thin as a rail with long hair while Atli is stocky and a bit on the macho side. On several occasions I saw Atli scramble inside the container and quickly get lost among the hundreds of bags. Then he`d emerge gasping for breath way on the other side. Keep in mind: this container is outside and those plastic bags are cold! All these fellows, like most younger Icelanders, speak fluent (American) English with absolutely no accent.
-There`s a 19th year old fellow at work by the name of Sigurjon who started before Christmas. I thought he was one of the temporary workers; not sure he is continuing on but enjoy talking with him. While I`m on the morning shift or from 8-3 there`s not much to do in my department so I help him sort out various large mail bags. A month prior to Christmas we got a large container parked out back to store existing bags. Actually it`s the largest size container and is chock full of bags. Now with the rush season over, that fellow and an elderly man who helps out gradually are taking the bags in, marking them and returning to their respective countries. This all takes place way in the back of the large building out of sight of most people so we take it easy while at the same time steadily chopping away at the bags. On occasion are two other young fellows, Geir and Atli, who are good friends and make up a terrific comedy team. They stand in contrast to Sigurjon who is more serious and thoughtful. Geir is as thin as a rail with long hair while Atli is stocky and a bit on the macho side. On several occasions I saw Atli scramble inside the container and quickly get lost among the hundreds of bags. Then he`d emerge gasping for breath way on the other side. Keep in mind: this container is outside and those plastic bags are cold! All these fellows, like most younger Icelanders, speak fluent (American) English with absolutely no accent.
Friday, January 12, 2007
-Jan 13th. Yesterday afternoon it snowed off and on right through the night and continues now. As with all Icelandic weather regardless of severity, it comes in spurts, even in a given storm. It might be due to our being in the mid Atlantic, just a guess. Later on it`ll be interesting to see if I can get out to the main street, close by, because my car is small. Then there is always the bus. I`m just 4 kilometers away, never took the bus to date, so this might be the first time. Usually winter sets in about now; may end up with more snow than usual, the last few years having been on the light side. As for kids going to school, the weather rarely if ever prevents them from attending. A storm as the one in progress would be making headlines in the US!
-There`s talk about the national elections in May, more specifically, that if a given party takes office, income on stocks will be taxed. However, that won`t affect stocks purchased prior to the election. Supposedly some of these Icelandic stocks are doing extremely well, especially the banks.
-The car lock de-icer works out just fine. At first it didn`t take, possibly because it had to penetrate and sit for a while. Just by looking at my car at various times the direction of a given storm is easily determined: one side perfectly clear and the other, blanketed with snow and ice.
-There`s talk about the national elections in May, more specifically, that if a given party takes office, income on stocks will be taxed. However, that won`t affect stocks purchased prior to the election. Supposedly some of these Icelandic stocks are doing extremely well, especially the banks.
-The car lock de-icer works out just fine. At first it didn`t take, possibly because it had to penetrate and sit for a while. Just by looking at my car at various times the direction of a given storm is easily determined: one side perfectly clear and the other, blanketed with snow and ice.
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
-Jan 11th. `You won`t feel that way ten years from now!` A lady from overseas, married to an Icelander, who works at the post said that to me yesterday. Before that remark I said that I was content in Iceland, liked the people, etc. My immediate response was that I`ll cross that bridge when I come to it, kind of diplomatic yet at the same time trying to make a point. This lady was referring to the rudeness of Icelanders which to me has some truth but reflects that simplicity I often note here. Actually, her remark got me a bit angry though I did not reveal it. Quite a few foreigners who`ve married Icelanders share the same sentiment. They married a specific person who happened to be Icelandic. Then they set up home and a family here which for the foreigner necessitates getting acclimatized to a new environment and all that entails. After a short period of time there emerges a distinction between the spouse (being Icelandic) and the people who live here (also Icelandic). I.e., being married to one does not mean you like the country. I also suspect that in-laws play a larger role than admitted, for you don`t freely choose them but marry into them.
-Before leaving work yesterday evening several people quipped they were going to stay up to watch President Bush which in Iceland means 2 am (Iceland is on Greenwich Mean Time). I took a quick glance on the Internet, depressing, and will get more depressed when I get more info. Of course, this will be re-enforced when talking with folks later on today. That`s one of the pleasures of working at the post, socializing, the best way to know a culture other than your own.
-Before leaving work yesterday evening several people quipped they were going to stay up to watch President Bush which in Iceland means 2 am (Iceland is on Greenwich Mean Time). I took a quick glance on the Internet, depressing, and will get more depressed when I get more info. Of course, this will be re-enforced when talking with folks later on today. That`s one of the pleasures of working at the post, socializing, the best way to know a culture other than your own.
-Jan 7th, Epiphany Sunday and Westman Island. The flight here from Reykjavik (a mere 25 minutes) was delayed about 20 minutes in order to de-ice the plane. I was hoping for a good view but alas, the de-icing fluid covered the window almost the entire flight which, incidentally, was full. Also the light was dim at departure, 10.30 am. However, the de-icing fluid blew off sufficiently in order to behold the dramatic approach and landing at Westman. The plane had to make several maneuvers in and around mountain peaks, two of which are volcanoes. This consisted in a left then right and back to left turn to land. Then it straightens out at the last minute for the runway (whew!). Kari and I spent several hours together to discuss various future projects in association with the Academy of Reykjavik as well as inviting scholars from abroad. More on that as things develop.
-Yesterday was the last day of the Christmas season, a holiday in Iceland, hence the reason for being invited, and Westman Island has its own peculiar twist. First of all, a bunch of us crowded into two cars. This was a rather chaotic process, this one wanting such-and-such and the other wanting the contrary. Typical Icelandic squabbling, like a bunch of Italians arguing over what to do! However, it was all in good spirits, and we finally got underway about 30 minutes late, again typically Icelandic. Down near the town`s center…and this is at the base of a huge cliff—came the thirteen `lads of Christmas,` loose translation of pre-Christian spirits. Actually, they were half way up the other side of this cliff, coming around the corner with torches in hand. Then they got into a float of sorts behind which people follow with their children. The so-called `lads` reminded me of Scareface from the Texas Chainsaw Massacre. One of them was blurting out all sorts of warnings to kids, that they have to behavior in this the new year, else he`d send his compatriots after them before next Christmas. Right behind this float were a number Santa Clauses, a recent introduction to Iceland, carrying touches. First impression was that such an event would be terrifying to a child, and I saw more than one cry and run for cover. Actually one of the `lads` was by himself (rather, herself). She kind of runs the show and consisted of a large, witch-like head under which were about six people carrying it. Keep in mind that all this was taking place amid deafening noise and dozens of torches. Finally the parade came to a field where a bonfire was ignited topped off by fireworks. Boy, do the Icelanders love fireworks! I kept thinking of the US, how authorities and various organizations would recoil in horror at the unchecked handling of these things Next the `Christmas lads` walked around a fenced-off area rushing at children while threatening them. During this about a hundred teenagers dressed with hats and costumes danced around the bonfire. They were joined by some other `lads` but in quite horrifying costumes. Such was the end of the Christmas season, unforgettable!
-I took a flight home 10.30 am today and had a good view exiting Westman, again, a dramatic series of turns to avoid the mountains (and two volcanoes). The biggest problem was when I arrived at Reykjavik Airport: all the car doors were frozen, so I barely got in after jimmying around with the rear right door. This is not uncommon here due to blowing sleet and snow, so will pick up some de-icer to keep on hand.
-Jan 8th. A good friend of mine told me about his niece who`s 30 million krona in debt (approximately 70k = $1). Apparently this woman got into the export business, initially did well but got greedy and so owes her life to the banks. Such a problem is more common here in Iceland than elsewhere, amazingly so, and I asked my friend why. As I just noted, greed is the dominant factor at work (nothing new there) but is coupled by that Icelandic impulsiveness and simplicity. Many are like kids in a candy store, buying up everything they see. I think another factor at work is that Icelanders are nouvelle riche, that their economy really developed in the early 70s and grew ever since. While such debtors owe their lives to the bank, they get a type of clemency in the form of a loan by which to live and not end up in poverty which, by the way, is non-existent in Iceland. It`s considered a foreign problem, pure and simple. Because debtors receive this clemency, they take advantage of it to (you guessed it) go out and spend more. It`s an amazing situation by any standards: both debtor and bank win. As for banks, I may have noted in last year`s blog that the economy is booming though slowed a bit last year. Interest rates are about the highest in the world, around 12-15%. Talk about off-shore banking.
-For a few weeks now I`ve wanted to have my car washed thoroughly instead of the usual hose-down at the local gas station. By chance I visited the dealer who sold my car, and he gave me a free carwash ticket which I took advantage of due to the fine weather. The wash is close to Smaarlind, Iceland`s largest mall, so I went over there: the car came out brand new. I liked the decorations, polar bears, puffins and seals, quite Icelandic.
-This afternoon I stopped by a well-know antique bookstore whose owner (and son) I`ve know for years. I asked Bragi about the famous chess player, Bobby Fischer, who moved to Iceland not long ago, because he frequents this store. Perhaps I`ll be fortunate to run into him on one of my visits.
-Jan 9th. Icelanders leave on their Christmas lights much longer than Americans. For example, today quite a few remain light, possibly due to the tradition of Candlemas on Feb 2nd, but that is a guess.
-Often I think of the view of Iceland during my short trip from Westman to Reykjavik on Sunday. It was snowy and vast, with the larva nature of this island standing out with great clarity. The land seemed to drift off to somewhere up there; God only knows where that is, but it forms a semi-conscious back-drop in your mind against which your life plays out. The more immediate mountains and planes are clearly yet are overshadowed by that vastness which, compared to other places, is not remote but actively present. The pinkish-gray hue of the atmosphere due to the sun`s low slant simply adds to this atmosphere because regardless of what`s up close or distant, everything is permeated by this color. It has the unique ability to both blur and clarify. I`ve heard people describe Greenland in terms similar to these. However, the big difference is that Greenland`s vastness is intimidating compared with Iceland`s smallness and tameness. That gets back to what I observed in the 06 blog: wild yet oddly domestic.
-Today it is the coldest day I`ve experienced thus far, -10C, but clear as a bell with no wind. Early this afternoon for the first time I went to a redemption center, having built up a supply of malt cans, that specifically Icelandic non-alcoholic beverage. It is to Iceland what, for example, Guinness is to Ireland. Anyway, the redemption center is clean and efficient by American standards; got the equivalent of 15 cents per can and bottle, not bad. They even provide wash basins to clean your hands.
-Jan 10th. Last night (it`s now 9.15 am, kind of night!) we had light, powdery snow; current temp is -9C.
-A Lutheran priest at the church nearby used to teach Icelandic in high school. Yesterday when I visited him I was lamenting the fact, paradoxical as it sounds, of not being able to learn the language. The basic reason is that virtually everyone speaks perfect English. Not only that, but they speak with an American (as opposed to British) accent. I.e., for all intensive purposes Iceland is bi-lingual. That may sound fine, and one can get along here easy as pie with English only. However, I desire a more systematic way of learning Icelandic here and now. The post is supposed to offer classes this month which is fine, but I want to begin, well, yesterday. So this Lutheran priest took pity on me, so we began on the spot and will continue later this week. Icelanders are thrilled if a foreigner speaks Icelandic, however poorly, because it`s a matter of national pride given the difficulty of the language.
-Icelandic women are among the most beautiful in the world, certainly true. They may be divided into two classes: 1) those who are `Scandinavian` or blue-eye blonds and 2) those who are brunettes and/or red-heads. The latter are much more common due to the Celtic bloodline which to many visitors comes as a surprise if not a shock. Not only that, the majority of women have that distinctively Irish complexion: freckles and light, creamy skin.
-Tonight President Bush will speak to the nation about troop increase in Iraq. Ever since that has gone public, Icelanders have been jeering him; more accurately, more so than normal. People here love the United States and what it stands for and are therefore deeply saddened by current foreign policy.
-Yesterday was the last day of the Christmas season, a holiday in Iceland, hence the reason for being invited, and Westman Island has its own peculiar twist. First of all, a bunch of us crowded into two cars. This was a rather chaotic process, this one wanting such-and-such and the other wanting the contrary. Typical Icelandic squabbling, like a bunch of Italians arguing over what to do! However, it was all in good spirits, and we finally got underway about 30 minutes late, again typically Icelandic. Down near the town`s center…and this is at the base of a huge cliff—came the thirteen `lads of Christmas,` loose translation of pre-Christian spirits. Actually, they were half way up the other side of this cliff, coming around the corner with torches in hand. Then they got into a float of sorts behind which people follow with their children. The so-called `lads` reminded me of Scareface from the Texas Chainsaw Massacre. One of them was blurting out all sorts of warnings to kids, that they have to behavior in this the new year, else he`d send his compatriots after them before next Christmas. Right behind this float were a number Santa Clauses, a recent introduction to Iceland, carrying touches. First impression was that such an event would be terrifying to a child, and I saw more than one cry and run for cover. Actually one of the `lads` was by himself (rather, herself). She kind of runs the show and consisted of a large, witch-like head under which were about six people carrying it. Keep in mind that all this was taking place amid deafening noise and dozens of torches. Finally the parade came to a field where a bonfire was ignited topped off by fireworks. Boy, do the Icelanders love fireworks! I kept thinking of the US, how authorities and various organizations would recoil in horror at the unchecked handling of these things Next the `Christmas lads` walked around a fenced-off area rushing at children while threatening them. During this about a hundred teenagers dressed with hats and costumes danced around the bonfire. They were joined by some other `lads` but in quite horrifying costumes. Such was the end of the Christmas season, unforgettable!
-I took a flight home 10.30 am today and had a good view exiting Westman, again, a dramatic series of turns to avoid the mountains (and two volcanoes). The biggest problem was when I arrived at Reykjavik Airport: all the car doors were frozen, so I barely got in after jimmying around with the rear right door. This is not uncommon here due to blowing sleet and snow, so will pick up some de-icer to keep on hand.
-Jan 8th. A good friend of mine told me about his niece who`s 30 million krona in debt (approximately 70k = $1). Apparently this woman got into the export business, initially did well but got greedy and so owes her life to the banks. Such a problem is more common here in Iceland than elsewhere, amazingly so, and I asked my friend why. As I just noted, greed is the dominant factor at work (nothing new there) but is coupled by that Icelandic impulsiveness and simplicity. Many are like kids in a candy store, buying up everything they see. I think another factor at work is that Icelanders are nouvelle riche, that their economy really developed in the early 70s and grew ever since. While such debtors owe their lives to the bank, they get a type of clemency in the form of a loan by which to live and not end up in poverty which, by the way, is non-existent in Iceland. It`s considered a foreign problem, pure and simple. Because debtors receive this clemency, they take advantage of it to (you guessed it) go out and spend more. It`s an amazing situation by any standards: both debtor and bank win. As for banks, I may have noted in last year`s blog that the economy is booming though slowed a bit last year. Interest rates are about the highest in the world, around 12-15%. Talk about off-shore banking.
-For a few weeks now I`ve wanted to have my car washed thoroughly instead of the usual hose-down at the local gas station. By chance I visited the dealer who sold my car, and he gave me a free carwash ticket which I took advantage of due to the fine weather. The wash is close to Smaarlind, Iceland`s largest mall, so I went over there: the car came out brand new. I liked the decorations, polar bears, puffins and seals, quite Icelandic.
-This afternoon I stopped by a well-know antique bookstore whose owner (and son) I`ve know for years. I asked Bragi about the famous chess player, Bobby Fischer, who moved to Iceland not long ago, because he frequents this store. Perhaps I`ll be fortunate to run into him on one of my visits.
-Jan 9th. Icelanders leave on their Christmas lights much longer than Americans. For example, today quite a few remain light, possibly due to the tradition of Candlemas on Feb 2nd, but that is a guess.
-Often I think of the view of Iceland during my short trip from Westman to Reykjavik on Sunday. It was snowy and vast, with the larva nature of this island standing out with great clarity. The land seemed to drift off to somewhere up there; God only knows where that is, but it forms a semi-conscious back-drop in your mind against which your life plays out. The more immediate mountains and planes are clearly yet are overshadowed by that vastness which, compared to other places, is not remote but actively present. The pinkish-gray hue of the atmosphere due to the sun`s low slant simply adds to this atmosphere because regardless of what`s up close or distant, everything is permeated by this color. It has the unique ability to both blur and clarify. I`ve heard people describe Greenland in terms similar to these. However, the big difference is that Greenland`s vastness is intimidating compared with Iceland`s smallness and tameness. That gets back to what I observed in the 06 blog: wild yet oddly domestic.
-Today it is the coldest day I`ve experienced thus far, -10C, but clear as a bell with no wind. Early this afternoon for the first time I went to a redemption center, having built up a supply of malt cans, that specifically Icelandic non-alcoholic beverage. It is to Iceland what, for example, Guinness is to Ireland. Anyway, the redemption center is clean and efficient by American standards; got the equivalent of 15 cents per can and bottle, not bad. They even provide wash basins to clean your hands.
-Jan 10th. Last night (it`s now 9.15 am, kind of night!) we had light, powdery snow; current temp is -9C.
-A Lutheran priest at the church nearby used to teach Icelandic in high school. Yesterday when I visited him I was lamenting the fact, paradoxical as it sounds, of not being able to learn the language. The basic reason is that virtually everyone speaks perfect English. Not only that, but they speak with an American (as opposed to British) accent. I.e., for all intensive purposes Iceland is bi-lingual. That may sound fine, and one can get along here easy as pie with English only. However, I desire a more systematic way of learning Icelandic here and now. The post is supposed to offer classes this month which is fine, but I want to begin, well, yesterday. So this Lutheran priest took pity on me, so we began on the spot and will continue later this week. Icelanders are thrilled if a foreigner speaks Icelandic, however poorly, because it`s a matter of national pride given the difficulty of the language.
-Icelandic women are among the most beautiful in the world, certainly true. They may be divided into two classes: 1) those who are `Scandinavian` or blue-eye blonds and 2) those who are brunettes and/or red-heads. The latter are much more common due to the Celtic bloodline which to many visitors comes as a surprise if not a shock. Not only that, the majority of women have that distinctively Irish complexion: freckles and light, creamy skin.
-Tonight President Bush will speak to the nation about troop increase in Iraq. Ever since that has gone public, Icelanders have been jeering him; more accurately, more so than normal. People here love the United States and what it stands for and are therefore deeply saddened by current foreign policy.
Friday, January 05, 2007
-Jan 6th. I heard that over 13,000 Icelanders were abroad over Christmas-New Year`s. That might not sound much but is a fairly substantial number in a nation of some 300,000.
-One of the best kept secrets in the world is that Icelandic banks offer interest rates as high as 14%, averaging around 10%. The economy has been on a roll for some years now, has cooled off, yet doing well enough in a sustainable way.
-Later today I leave for Westman Island, this time by plane, a 25 minute flight from Reykjavik Airport. It should be exciting, especially coming into Westman which resembles a South Pacific island: grassy with high peaks and two volcanoes. When I made the reservation three days ago I checked out the weather: more important than not being able to go is not being able to return! Sometimes that can happen here in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, especially in January. Around Christmas the ferry, known for its reliability, was unable to make the trip for an unheard of two days in a row due to foul weather. I had taken the ferry twice before; one of those experiences that thrills you the first time but ho-hum the second. You have to set aside half a day of travel, so why not 25 minutes with a good Internet deal?
-As for Reykjavik airport, it is downtown, and by that I mean almost literally. There`s a flat area just south of Reykjavik proper where the university is located as well as houses on the north and east (ocean is on the west). It is an accepted fact of life to see low flying planes over downtown and more so, over the major highway leading into Reykjavik. It can be unnerving by any standards! Iceland`s interior airline (specializes in communtes to Greenland and Faroe Island as well!) uses the airport, propeller jobs, along with an occasional private jet. Ever since I had been here the airport building, modest as it is, hasn`t changed a bit: still run-down and make-shift as it originally had been as a WW II military base. Over the years there had been (and still is) talk about moving the airport to the international one at Keflavik, 50 minutes away, or to Hafnarfjordur, about 8 miles away. And so the building and airport proper never developed. The university has cast an envious eye on that property for years and is ready to snatch it up.
-One of the best kept secrets in the world is that Icelandic banks offer interest rates as high as 14%, averaging around 10%. The economy has been on a roll for some years now, has cooled off, yet doing well enough in a sustainable way.
-Later today I leave for Westman Island, this time by plane, a 25 minute flight from Reykjavik Airport. It should be exciting, especially coming into Westman which resembles a South Pacific island: grassy with high peaks and two volcanoes. When I made the reservation three days ago I checked out the weather: more important than not being able to go is not being able to return! Sometimes that can happen here in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, especially in January. Around Christmas the ferry, known for its reliability, was unable to make the trip for an unheard of two days in a row due to foul weather. I had taken the ferry twice before; one of those experiences that thrills you the first time but ho-hum the second. You have to set aside half a day of travel, so why not 25 minutes with a good Internet deal?
-As for Reykjavik airport, it is downtown, and by that I mean almost literally. There`s a flat area just south of Reykjavik proper where the university is located as well as houses on the north and east (ocean is on the west). It is an accepted fact of life to see low flying planes over downtown and more so, over the major highway leading into Reykjavik. It can be unnerving by any standards! Iceland`s interior airline (specializes in communtes to Greenland and Faroe Island as well!) uses the airport, propeller jobs, along with an occasional private jet. Ever since I had been here the airport building, modest as it is, hasn`t changed a bit: still run-down and make-shift as it originally had been as a WW II military base. Over the years there had been (and still is) talk about moving the airport to the international one at Keflavik, 50 minutes away, or to Hafnarfjordur, about 8 miles away. And so the building and airport proper never developed. The university has cast an envious eye on that property for years and is ready to snatch it up.
Thursday, January 04, 2007
-Jan 4th. Yesterday morning, rather early, we had a glazing of ice on the roads and sidewalks (they`re not geothermally heated here). However, they threw down some grit on the sidewalks. Instead of sand, volcanic grit is used, quite interesting! Some fireworks continue to go off in the evening though here and there; probably kids using up some of that huge ammunition dump for New Year`s.
-As time goes by at the post, I appreciate being there. It`s one thing to live in Iceland but quite another to be on the level of work where you meet all sorts of people. Over a period of time you get to make two distinctions: everyone everywhere is the same yet there are differences. I know them (i.e., the Icelandic character) and have made frequent reference, but feel a need to get a better handle on how to describe them. I`m sure that will come with time.
-As for the post, I handle computer stuff for foreign parcels, etc. One worker who sorts some of this out for me remarked on all the Victoria Secret catalogues now going out! Interesting, too, that quite a few have been directed here, intended for Iran!
-The Danish language has been taught in schools here for generations, Denmark having taken over Iceland a while back. Still is, and one young fellow still in school who works at the post for extra cash told me that all the kids hate it. This is yet another sarcastic remark I`ve heard about things Danish; a kind of mixed bag attitude.
-As time goes by at the post, I appreciate being there. It`s one thing to live in Iceland but quite another to be on the level of work where you meet all sorts of people. Over a period of time you get to make two distinctions: everyone everywhere is the same yet there are differences. I know them (i.e., the Icelandic character) and have made frequent reference, but feel a need to get a better handle on how to describe them. I`m sure that will come with time.
-As for the post, I handle computer stuff for foreign parcels, etc. One worker who sorts some of this out for me remarked on all the Victoria Secret catalogues now going out! Interesting, too, that quite a few have been directed here, intended for Iran!
-The Danish language has been taught in schools here for generations, Denmark having taken over Iceland a while back. Still is, and one young fellow still in school who works at the post for extra cash told me that all the kids hate it. This is yet another sarcastic remark I`ve heard about things Danish; a kind of mixed bag attitude.
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
-Jan 3rd. I just re-read an email from a friend in the US sent before Christmas: `He (Jesus) certainly got the message: in the beginning a barn and in the end a cross.`
-People at work were sharing their joys (and horror stories) about the fireworks display New Year`s eve. Everyone commented upon the gunpowder, how it hung over Reykjavik all night and well into the next morning. Fortunately for me in Grafavogur there was little or none. People kept their windows closed tightly to avoid this smoke; actually smelled some off a co-worker today!
-The weather looks promising for this weekend, so I bought a ticket online for a flight (25 minutes) to Westman Island at the invitation of a family who lives there. On two occasions I took the ferry which pretty much consumes half a day: the hour long bus ride to it and then 3 ½ hrs on the boat itself. There`s a special holiday Saturday evening, completion of the Christmas season, when the 13 elves of Christmas descend from one of the mountains to chase the children. This assumes the form of a parade followed by a bonfire, so should be interesting. The only problem is, of course, the weather despite favorable predictions. The approach to Westman airport is dramatic, in between two mountains, one of which is a volcano, the famous one which covered half the island in 1974. Hopefully we will see some of the 12-15 million puffins that inhabit part of the island; didn`t last two trips due to the weather. Everyone who has visited Westman loves it. Stress is upon `visit` because it is an island, one of those places that takes half a day to see. `Then what` as a friend commented. It will be different for me since I go to see friends and discuss my near-future association with the Academy of Reykjavik to which I am affiliated already.
-People at work were sharing their joys (and horror stories) about the fireworks display New Year`s eve. Everyone commented upon the gunpowder, how it hung over Reykjavik all night and well into the next morning. Fortunately for me in Grafavogur there was little or none. People kept their windows closed tightly to avoid this smoke; actually smelled some off a co-worker today!
-The weather looks promising for this weekend, so I bought a ticket online for a flight (25 minutes) to Westman Island at the invitation of a family who lives there. On two occasions I took the ferry which pretty much consumes half a day: the hour long bus ride to it and then 3 ½ hrs on the boat itself. There`s a special holiday Saturday evening, completion of the Christmas season, when the 13 elves of Christmas descend from one of the mountains to chase the children. This assumes the form of a parade followed by a bonfire, so should be interesting. The only problem is, of course, the weather despite favorable predictions. The approach to Westman airport is dramatic, in between two mountains, one of which is a volcano, the famous one which covered half the island in 1974. Hopefully we will see some of the 12-15 million puffins that inhabit part of the island; didn`t last two trips due to the weather. Everyone who has visited Westman loves it. Stress is upon `visit` because it is an island, one of those places that takes half a day to see. `Then what` as a friend commented. It will be different for me since I go to see friends and discuss my near-future association with the Academy of Reykjavik to which I am affiliated already.
Tuesday, January 02, 2007
-Jan 2nd. A pleasant New Year`s day with some friends though I didn`t stay long. It can be awkward when relatives arrive since they talk about family, etc, of which I have little or no interest.
-Full moon shimmering on the inner harbor of Sundahofn as well as the ocean beyond: very attractive and mysterious. Because Iceland is an island, you`re never far from the sea. It is always there as a companion even if you might not pay attention to it directly. Over a period of time this proximity affects you in a positive way. In brief, it comes down to appreciating the ocean as a kind of living being.
-One nice thing you don`t hear from Icelanders this time of year, New Year resolutions. They are not part of the vocabulary perhaps, if I may throw in an observation, is because they live moment-to-moment in that childhood simplicity I had mentioned earlier. Making resolutions or plans isn`t part of that make-up.
-Full moon shimmering on the inner harbor of Sundahofn as well as the ocean beyond: very attractive and mysterious. Because Iceland is an island, you`re never far from the sea. It is always there as a companion even if you might not pay attention to it directly. Over a period of time this proximity affects you in a positive way. In brief, it comes down to appreciating the ocean as a kind of living being.
-One nice thing you don`t hear from Icelanders this time of year, New Year resolutions. They are not part of the vocabulary perhaps, if I may throw in an observation, is because they live moment-to-moment in that childhood simplicity I had mentioned earlier. Making resolutions or plans isn`t part of that make-up.
Monday, January 01, 2007
This blog continues from one posted at www.lectio-divina.org. On the left click `Reflections from Iceland` which brings you to it.
-Jan 1st. How in the world without exaggeration could I describe the fireworks display last night? I`m at a loss, really, that`s how intense and sometimes frightening it was. When we think of such events, immediately comes to mind Times Square, etc. There displays are controlled, in a specific area, and last under 30 minutes, chicken feed compared to Reykjavik. The display is city-wide, began around 6pm but suddenly ground to a halt at 10. Very curious to the unsuspecting visitor. The reason: on New Year`s Eve the state tv station puts on a year-end spoof of the year`s events or about life in general. Everyone rushes indoors to see it after which the fireworks begin precisely at 11. Then they really pick up speed in a way that is simply terrifying. At times I could feel the earth shaking under me from the sheer magnitude of all that explosive power. Not just that but countless windows were shattered and multiple fires set across the city. Someone said around 300,000 tons of explosives were set off, hard to comprehend. In yesterday`s entry I compared it to Beirut or Baghdad, an accurate comparison. The weather was exceptionally calm and clear which made for ideal conditions. En route home I drove through what appeared a thick fog, sometimes difficult to see, which turned out to be gunpowder. It blanked the entire city and suburbs, almost choking people. I also understand that hospitals and rest homes have emergency oxygen on hand for patients so they can breathe. Similarly, earlier today the news was filled with warnings for elderly people and those with respiratory problems to take precautions against the gunpowder. Along Saebraut, the throughway which hugs the sea, I came across one of several serious car accidents: two cars full of fireworks collided causing an immense explosion. Just as I passed fire equipment, etc, were rushing to the scene. It turned out that we had 6 such accidents, some fatal, which is not uncommon. When I arrived home, the smell of gunpowder permeated my clothing and as it turned out, my apartment. I live about 5 kilometers from the city center, but that`s nothing. The display`s intensity spread throughout every corner including suburbs. It looks like I`ll have to do a thorough airing tomorrow, but it was a night to remember, that`s for sure! The next day (today) around 9 am I took a quick ride in to check out the damage: remnants of fireworks strewn all over the place plus the distinct scent of gunpowder. I understand that later today Reykjavik has special crews to sweep up the stuff.
-Jan 1st. How in the world without exaggeration could I describe the fireworks display last night? I`m at a loss, really, that`s how intense and sometimes frightening it was. When we think of such events, immediately comes to mind Times Square, etc. There displays are controlled, in a specific area, and last under 30 minutes, chicken feed compared to Reykjavik. The display is city-wide, began around 6pm but suddenly ground to a halt at 10. Very curious to the unsuspecting visitor. The reason: on New Year`s Eve the state tv station puts on a year-end spoof of the year`s events or about life in general. Everyone rushes indoors to see it after which the fireworks begin precisely at 11. Then they really pick up speed in a way that is simply terrifying. At times I could feel the earth shaking under me from the sheer magnitude of all that explosive power. Not just that but countless windows were shattered and multiple fires set across the city. Someone said around 300,000 tons of explosives were set off, hard to comprehend. In yesterday`s entry I compared it to Beirut or Baghdad, an accurate comparison. The weather was exceptionally calm and clear which made for ideal conditions. En route home I drove through what appeared a thick fog, sometimes difficult to see, which turned out to be gunpowder. It blanked the entire city and suburbs, almost choking people. I also understand that hospitals and rest homes have emergency oxygen on hand for patients so they can breathe. Similarly, earlier today the news was filled with warnings for elderly people and those with respiratory problems to take precautions against the gunpowder. Along Saebraut, the throughway which hugs the sea, I came across one of several serious car accidents: two cars full of fireworks collided causing an immense explosion. Just as I passed fire equipment, etc, were rushing to the scene. It turned out that we had 6 such accidents, some fatal, which is not uncommon. When I arrived home, the smell of gunpowder permeated my clothing and as it turned out, my apartment. I live about 5 kilometers from the city center, but that`s nothing. The display`s intensity spread throughout every corner including suburbs. It looks like I`ll have to do a thorough airing tomorrow, but it was a night to remember, that`s for sure! The next day (today) around 9 am I took a quick ride in to check out the damage: remnants of fireworks strewn all over the place plus the distinct scent of gunpowder. I understand that later today Reykjavik has special crews to sweep up the stuff.
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